Red hair colour red and copper hair dye: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Hot reds fiery copper hair colour and dye .For so many the thought of going Red is very scary. Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop look like swimming pools.

Now red hair colour are back hot reds cool sultry shades hot coppers!! It’s cool to look hot!

Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it  getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone the more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play But even this is a balance to much lift  re remove the red and orange to little and we control that vibrancy. The Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker. finally once in the hair it can prove quite difficult to remove.

 When we have a natural level 7 it can be Blonde with a undertone slightly gold its very easy to go Copper. When going tone on tone or darker it is not necessary to use permanent colour. In fact when going Red or copper level 7 and above the more or higher volume of peroxide the more copper the colour, you are adding orange to the hair with the lift.

For level 6 dark Blonde and level 5 light Brown again consider whether you need to lift and expose more pigment in the hair at level 5 and 6 10 volume will be enough to bring out extra red pigment.

Green eyes works with red hair as can cool skin tone it’s a question of getting the shade right so it compliments skin and eye tone. Different shades can be played with to create tone and dimension, it is possible to go from copper to red to brunette and back it you think the process through! I have intentionally shown the same model for most of the shots in an effort to show that change of colour and style is possible. with out over processing the hair.

As you can see it is easy to move between shades from quite dark brunette through to warm tones, they do effect skin tone and eye colour but not in an adverse way.

All of these colour have been done with  10vol for root lift and Demi Deposit the darker shades Demi only remember tone on tone or darker does not require lift.

A choice of high volume of peroxide will warm up your chosen colour and shade higher volume of developer introduces more of the natural warm pigment exposed in the lifting process thus making colour warmer or hotter.

Above this rich copper colour is sectioned out into Zulu knots and four different shades of red and copper have been applied.

Above this Level 5 natural level 10 vol peroxide enough to bring out the red pigment but not enough for more lift to bring out orange would make this cool red more brown.

Enjoy have fun experiment: So many shades of reds and copper to experiment with above all the same model taken at different time with different looks and different cuts all cuts done with just a razor!!

looking forward to thoughts and comments.

Mike B2MR

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!

When one thinks about violet as a colour or tone . I ask my self are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool red that one see’s so much of these days Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair colour process. Violet as shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But it’s almost behind the scene in the colour process. Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series Violet will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is.

As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart.

With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it’s plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10. Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash! Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required.

 What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it .this lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled.

Remember: We discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow/ Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation?

What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows

Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue

but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8

It’s all about balance.

Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance  you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process. If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone !   See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment fro the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this.Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it’s would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.

Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose.

Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above.

In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.

I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions .

Mike B2MR

THE HAIR COLOUR CHART:

A revised posting with lots of useful information:

The hair colour chart. How to use it read it and trust it. There is an internationally recognised chart used by all professional hairdressers fro the assessment of hair natural level and tone. It is our guide when doing a consultation with a client prior to making any decisions relating to both overall colour depth and tone. It is essential that as a professional we understand and use this tool in all our hair colouring and dying endeavours.

The international colour chart: Is a system used to both asses the natural level of a clients hair and also provide many choices of colour shade and tone. Depending on ones target colour. Why is all this so key? lets consider colour families shade and tone: This is how we can start to apply this to our shade chart and so have an understanding of the basic’s of hair colouring.

I have included  this versions of the colour wheel because it is my experience that simple is the best way to pass on process information in different ways. This diagram shows the break out of

Primary colours in the center working out through secondary colours into tertiary Quarternary colours these are all the other combination’s of colour, including all the colours the eye can see

The Eight colour families:  How they then relate to out colour chart.  We have what is know as an international colour code system. The number denotes lightness and darkness. The letter denotes shade and tone. Using the knowledge we have gained from the colour wheel, we are ready to move forward.

The N series is normally calibrated to control the warmth exposed at any given level working with up to 2 levels of lift. An example of this would be a natural level 6 would have enough Blue/Green to control the Red orange exposed in the under pigment at that level. [colour wheel] think opposite.

Note the N series is neutral a perfect blend of the primary colours at any given level 1-10.

Now we are starting to see how these colour rules/laws work in conjunction with our shade chart.

Lets look for example at Nc natural copper

This would sit on a colour wheel around level 7

It is a perfect balance at that level of our primary colours with secondary colours

red+yellow= orange  NC or 7NC natural level 7 with copper.

At a level 7 as soon as you lift the hair the first pigment exposed will always be warm and always have an orange undertone.

Finally the last piece of the puzzle.

level refers to how dark or light the shade of hair.

These shades are divided into levels. note were level 7 sits!

 Depth                                                Tone

*1 blue black  = blue base               /0 natural

*2 black                                           /1ash

*3 dark brown =violet base             /2 cool ash

*4 medium brown =red violet base  /3 honey gold

*5 light brown =red                          /4 red

*6 dark blonde =red orange             / 5 purple

*7 medium blonde =orange             /6 violet

*8 light blonde =yellow orange        /7 brunette

*9 clear blonde = yellow                  /8 pearl ash

*10 extra light blonde = pale yellow / 9 soft ash

Therefore a colour which has a number of 6/1is the depth of dark blonde with ash tones, so it would be a dark ash blonde.

Lets take a look at our N series on our scale of 1 to 10 being as suggested Black 10 being the lightest

the most natural light level is a 9.

Once we understand the N series we can  the different colour families from. Ash to Gold to Copper and Reds.

As we look at the shade chart we can see the families laid out N for Natural A for ash and so on  so for example a level 6 with Ash would be 6A or 6.1  level 9 with Ash would be 9.I or 9.1 on this bases a Copper Chat level 6 would be  6C or  6. 04 if it was a Copper Red at our level 6 it would be 6CR or 6.45 the first letter or number is always the lead or strongest pigment.

Finally the more high fashion shades .the high lift Blonde tones and cool Violet tones in this instance lets look at V shades less choice because as the shade gets lighter it would become to pink .

Less shade choice only at levels 4 and 5 or 5.07 on the number system.

in closing the colour chart is read down the side scale for shade dark to light across the top for tone most from Ash to violet  lead by  either A.G .C R V .

I hope this has shed a little light on the shade chat any question please post i will as always respond.

Mike B2MR

What do you know about Formaldehyde?

What do you know about Ammonia and MEA ?

For some time quite some time now our industry has been seeing more and more products coming to market available for us to use. Many of these products have new chemistry in whilst i’m all for new products. I am also wary of some of the marketing and claims attached to these new products some of the misleading information given to us but profit driven distributors and sales people.

We all have a responsibility to question what these products do how they work and if they are safe fro purpose. Sadly we cannot trust what’s on the box many manufactures are far from homiest with us about the chemistry of some of these products and how they work.

Green, natural, organic , herbal,healthy. Do not always mean what we think Its a play with words to make is us feel good to make us feel safe!

Some facts for us all to know and so i thought I would share some chemistry with those who might be interested. We owe it to ourselves our work mates and our clients to be informed. We have to make the right choices and also pass on the right information.

What do you know about Formaldehyde?  Yes it’s found in many of the keratin relaxer!

What is Formaldehyde? What are the risks?

Developers lift tone deposit.

Key to any hair colour formulation and process is the choice we make in developer .As part of our formulation What role does the developer play? Our developer lifts the hair exposing pigment  it aggregates the colour molecule to help it to develop once it is drawn into the hair under the cuticle which has been opened by our alkaline driver .

How they work:

The Colour it self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.This relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction.The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.

With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.

The different strengths and uses are as follows:

Uses:

Demi lotion

*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.

*10vol [ 3%]

*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.

* suitable for tone on tone or darker.

* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi application in this instance.

*Covering some examples of Grey hair.

*pre-softening  resistant hair.

*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]

*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]

* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

30vol[9%]

* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?

40vol [12%]

3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!

In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.

* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.

*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift.

It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

As an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} To bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.

Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.

To simplify

The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex.

The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.

True colours

This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level.

We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.

problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue].

Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine .wrong formulation, excessive colouring,

Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.

wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.

Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.

The advantages of permanent colour.

*Can permanently change hair colour.

*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.

*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation

.*Durability.

*versatility.

*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.

Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.

*Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,

* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.

*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.

Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it’s a lot to take in digest understand.

Finally.

Herbal or Organic Colour

These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative.

Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline.

Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it’s derived from grain it’s classed as being Herbal natural. it’s your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour.

We are now flooded with adds marketing on so many Ammonia free products without any hint of the re placement chemistry or what it does!  So why don’t we question why do we trust!

This revolution is now already in many of the home colour kits that promote quick fix Ammonia free colour! is this really professional?

The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?

Thoughts on new MEA as engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

some useful facts:

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely

untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the

colour was not washed off correctly, the MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse

effect on the hair.

Mike B2MR

The Salon Consultancy:  Business and staff development through coaching:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Question:

Many salons have embraced new soft ware systems. But are struggling to implement processes to keep data current.  Do you have A CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT system ‘CRM’ system? How is your salon making this work?

It has been suggested that some salons are struggling with new technology. Having installed a software management system updating client information and keeping it current is proving very challenging. For a Salon to truly embrace new technology the receptionist has to be committed to the changes required for the implementation of data to take place and be kept current.

When i find or am recommend a product i like to provide a link for you to follow up.

http://www.kitomba.com/salon_software/kitomba/salon-and-spa-software/  

When investing in a management software system it is imperative that training members of staff in the operating of these systems is essential for it to succeed.This would involve front desk staff  the receptionist who are perfectly placed to obtain client information and then enter into the system and maintain it sounds easy!  But many still struggle How much can be done to integrate into these new systems and implement change within the salon.

The advantages to the salon and to the team on both a day to day and as a long term  bases must be explained. Management record keeping and data collection. The salon has create a culture within the team to encourage data collection. This would involve having clients sign up for and disclosing information so trust becomes an  issue. The client has to be assured that all records are private confidential and only for use with in the salon. It would be the stylist’s role during the consultation to discuss this update client record sheet or folder and then past it to the receptionist to be entered into the system.

Apart from choosing the right system and then putting into place the training required to make the changes effective. Planning is the way to success. Investigating both the system but also the support and training available. Set realistic time table for the integration of the system creating a routine at the reception so that data in always kept updated and secure. The owner needs to collaborate with all staff members so the system becomes part of the salon brand and culture.

The more topic’s and discussions i read about chair an booth rental the more i realise that not only is it growing as a small independent business trend. But also how much these stylist have a handle on staying current and connected with their clients. Their mobile is their receptionist and their appointment book. It also keeps all contact information to hand. Preventing double booking over booking. It keeps a calendar or appointments had and going forward.

I think that many salons are quite hooked on the social media aspect of salon promotion face book twitter act. When it comes to implementing a working data base management system professional help should be sort. When it comes to in house training on levels of management skills culture and branding help should be sought.Should you need help or wish to discuss issues on this or any aspect of your salon and business i would be happy to hear from you and discuss idea’s on a way forward for all.

 In some case implementing these changes and systems can involve on going training for all team members from the owner and manager all the way down to the trainee why? Because you are implementing a completely new system and business model a change of culture. So processes and they way we do things have to change. On going training and a willing ness to accept change is essential.

I think that when it comes to both change and training all staff have to be on board and committed to it  however daunting and challenging it might be. Seeking out and asking for professional help  does not come seas to any of us it ha sot been seen as strength and not a weakness! 

Mike B2MR:

When it comes to salon support I endorse what Karen and David Lynch have developed  with the ‘Salon success’ program it is my belief that they have the same values and vision that  make them a truly committed both ethically and professionally. The material that they have produced is gained from many years of hand on industry experience.

For more information. 

The Salon Success Club

                                  Training Skill Motivation:

Can any of us honestly say we know everything you are on top of your game? That being fully motivated on a daily bases giving your all? constantly striving to keep up to date and current? Or like most of us, you have off days are you having more off days than on? Is going to work hard work is being at work real work maybe even to the point of resentment? Do you resent the clients? maybe those team and work mates! It’s all just to much.

If you missing that excitement that creative buzz, passion, drive, motivation, then something is missing what could that be? It could be one thing it could be the culmination of many.

Time to take a look in the mirror time for some one on one with self! Well now it’s time to be honest. What ever you work situation environment this might be the Salon. Maybe your self employed. In the case of the salon sometimes its so easy to get wrapped up in the moment to busy, that training product updates fall the way side.

If you self employed taking the time to invest in your self also gets put to the side normally because of time and money issues. If this is the case then we convince our selves that we are doing Ok. You are up date it’s so easy for us to make excuses.The only problem with this is at the end of the day we are hurting our selves and our business we are also and most importantly letting our clients down standards of service drop. With so many new products constantly coming onto the market it’s so important to be informed and knowledgeable both for your own sake and that of your clients. Keratin hair relaxing products, new Ammonia free colour lines. This would be classed as product knowledge. Then  our skills techniques from colouring to cutting then we have the technical side of the equation the how and why’s sometimes gets neglected finding time just to reconnect with others.

.

It is my opinion that all of the above should be reviewed and although not possible to address all  topic’s at  once a plan should be drawn up to keep your business you staff  healthy and strong call it business and personal inventory or attitude adjustment. We all have access to informal seminar’s that are structured to help with salon management, team and staff motivation, Service Consultation and sales. Bad habits form slowly over time but fear not, habits can be broken just takes a willingness change a recognition of habit and indeed skill level finally a little work. It can take as little as three weeks to break habits and start a journey onto a new path of self discovery talent and skill building sharing. Stay at the top of you professional be a real master of your craft. Offer the highest standard of Service. Become a specialist in your field take control of your future your career your life.

If you need help with any of this just ask reach out! I would be happy to work with you or your team. or offer advice on places to get the style of help that works for you.

Salon ownership Chair rental