Hair colour or hair dye.

Using professional products to achieve pigment lift deposit. The relationship between natural hair colour, and hydrogen peroxide and permanent hair colour or dye is a complex one This is not a simple process it has to be understood to attain the right results. Why is this? As we look ay=t the shade chart to chose and consider a colour there are so many factors to consider. This is why the consultation is so important its our time to find out information client past history.Time for some honest frank discussion a fact finding mission.

Before we can consider away forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of this head, assess amount of Grey if any, discuss goals and targets .Are they realistic? Are they achievable? It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

Permanent colour. This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice. The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth we have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results. We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

What makes it challenging

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde This is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to assess the natural level of the hair before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.

10 volume or 3% Peroxide:

In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking  it exposes the underlying pigment with it natural level! On for example a  level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role it plays, how will it influence our colour. Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

Working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

10=yellow

9=yellow orange

8= orange

7=red orange

6= Red

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system,

Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers.

So using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

                   Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.

They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs. Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

Trusting and understand your colour wheel

Note: Different companies place their shades in different location on the wheel depending on the pigmentation of the shade:

FACT:  Most salons that change colour lines through dissatisfaction, with the colour not getting the results they want.

In most cases the problems lies with the stylist, lack of knowledge,  poor training, taking short cuts, rarely is it the product!

But hey it’s easier to blame a product that look in that mirror and be honest with your self!

Take the time to understand and trust the colour wheel, make choices and decision based on. skill, knowledge, not on guess work and ego.

Note:  Not understanding or lack of knowledge is not a excuse for a poor job!

Interested in seeking out help for you salon and business take a look at the salon success club and online support program.

The Salon Success Club

Here are some useful links to help you get started. all available main web page Menu.

Salon success why now 

Salon success club rates

Resources salon success

Looking for ways to grow and develop your team take a look at the salon success club and it’s online mentoring program for links and more information see home page menu check out the salon success club house and the new on line magazine ‘SO’ New issue out next week check out subscription.

Mike B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience

A very big topic so quite a long topic but hope it’s worth your time and reading!

The art of hair colouring is a passion to me having both the technical and practical skills is key to be successful. I would like to try and cover some point with relation to foil high lighting.In many salons I visit I  meet many very talent stylist and colour technicians. I like to watch techniques and see what is the chosen product many use foils some use easy mesh I use a waxed paper that does not need to be folded and will not allow bleeding due to colour expansion, a thing that can happen with foil, especially if to much product applied and or if heat is introduced and rapid expansion takes place.

One  of the biggest thing observed with highlight is the neatness of sections the folding of the foils the care taken. The patients of many really good colourist is to be admired. However there are always the slack untidy get them in get them out jobs to!

My question is on sectioning. It’s hard topic to write about I wish there was away to draw on screen the way sectioning should work. I will try here goes.

I have in past blogs articles made reference to not being able to cut  a straight line on a curved surface the same is so of highlighting sections! when we work up the side of the head in nice neat sections we are working on a curve! It follows if we pull the foil in tight to the section the middle will be right into the root leaving distance from root at either end! If we pull one end in the other will move out ! its the curveThe same can be said for working a T section if we start at the hair line and work toward the crown we are working on another curve so the same applies. as we pull the foil in as close as possible only a small part will pull right in a space will be at each end.  How do we get round this!?  By working in sections from the hairline in always sectioning to create a flat plain and by brick laying sections staggering them if you do this you will always get to the roots. Take time think about that curve adjust your sections it will make the work of difference to you! Of course still consider re growth application colour balance and formulation but take the time to work on those sections. It’s all about angles as you understand these  section you find you will naturally start to apply them to cutting sections as well it will give you over time greater understanding of shape and weight distribution.

Make over highlights and razor cut. 

I thought I would share with you a make over. Really long hight lighted hair it was amazing for undo looks and braids but the rest of the time lacked style and really live din  aBun or top know. A change was needed the look was created only using an open feather razor. The colour was a mix of highlights and low lights  colour balanced to blend. using 20 vol bleach de colouriser . 7B Demi formulation 8N with 20 vol roots 8B mid lengths and ends to blend.

Don’t be one of these low standard hairdressers

Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights low lights that have been done with bleach pre lightened and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone. In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by over processing over lifting lack of porosity in the hair. Patchy streaks dull blonds caused by using wrong shade as a toner.  An example of this might be attaining yellow blonde lift from bleaching with a de colouriser .To then select  that safe Ash tone!  This would be a wrong choice for ash is normally blue based so the effect would be a green hue ! or dull drab look Violet tone would be the correct choice. we are always trying to re balance our primary colours ! Red yellow blue!

All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing the  pigments that the hair is lacking. Everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair colour Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process Lift is power!  Having lifted the hair exposed natural pigment and warmth  do we want to neutralise or utilise the underlying pigment.

The chemistry and pigments you have exposed through the lifting process for colouring is all about lift and deposit and not just choose a colour and put in on any given head. Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.

When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible. As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base. If your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige?

Back to basic’s
Lets go back to level 6 to 10 and 40 volume peroxide this degree of lift is not possible why because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer,The above model use to have highlights every 6 weeks now every 3 months I’m busy doing all her friends she is happy to have it coloured less often! Win win This process warrants some time so you don’t end up with bright over lifted roots! Question? Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider. Have fun !!!

when seeking out help for you salon and business take a look at the salon success club and online support program.

The Salon Success Club

Here are some useful links to help you get started. all available main web page Menu.

Salon success why now 

Salon success club rates

Resources salon success

Looking for ways to grow and develop your team take a look at the salon success club and it’s online mentoring program for links and more information see home page menu check out the salon success club house and the new on line magazine ‘SO’ New issue out next week check out subscription.

Mike B2MR

Its gritty its informative its add free its what our industry needed ! So what are you waiting for ?
Its out Today the 2nd edition of the new ‘SO’ The hair magazine with articles interviews and no advertisement
http://salonsuccessclubhouse.com/salon-opinion-magazine/

THE HAIR COLOUR CHART: Hair dye colour chart.

A revised posting with lots of useful information:

The hair colour chart. or hair dye colour chart ! How to use it read it and trust it. There is an internationally recognised chart used by all professional hairdressers fro the assessment of hair natural level and tone. It is our guide when doing a consultation with a client prior to making any decisions relating to both overall colour depth and tone. It is essential that as a professional we understand and use this tool in all our hair colouring and dying endeavours.

The international colour chart: Is a system used to both asses the natural level of a clients hair and also provide many choices of colour shade and tone. Depending on ones target colour. Why is all this so key? lets consider colour families shade and tone: This is how we can start to apply this to our shade chart and so have an understanding of the basic’s of hair colouring.

I have included  this versions of the colour wheel because it is my experience that simple is the best way to pass on process information in different ways. This diagram shows the break out of

Primary colours in the center working out through secondary colours into tertiary Quarternary colours these are all the other combination’s of colour, including all the colours the eye can see

The Eight colour families:  How they then relate to out colour chart.  We have what is know as an international colour code system. The number denotes lightness and darkness. The letter denotes shade and tone. Using the knowledge we have gained from the colour wheel, we are ready to move forward.

The N series is normally calibrated to control the warmth exposed at any given level working with up to 2 levels of lift. An example of this would be a natural level 6 would have enough Blue/Green to control the Red orange exposed in the under pigment at that level. [colour wheel] think opposite.

Note the N series is neutral a perfect blend of the primary colours at any given level 1-10.

Now we are starting to see how these colour rules/laws work in conjunction with our shade chart.

Lets look for example at Nc natural copper

This would sit on a colour wheel around level 7

It is a perfect balance at that level of our primary colours with secondary colours

red+yellow= orange  NC or 7NC natural level 7 with copper.

At a level 7 as soon as you lift the hair the first pigment exposed will always be warm and always have an orange undertone.

Finally the last piece of the puzzle.

level refers to how dark or light the shade of hair.

These shades are divided into levels. note were level 7 sits!

 Depth                                                Tone

*1 blue black  = blue base               /0 natural

*2 black                                           /1ash

*3 dark brown =violet base             /2 cool ash

*4 medium brown =red violet base  /3 honey gold

*5 light brown =red                          /4 red

*6 dark blonde =red orange             / 5 purple

*7 medium blonde =orange             /6 violet

*8 light blonde =yellow orange        /7 brunette

*9 clear blonde = yellow                  /8 pearl ash

*10 extra light blonde = pale yellow / 9 soft ash

Therefore a colour which has a number of 6/1is the depth of dark blonde with ash tones, so it would be a dark ash blonde.

Lets take a look at our N series on our scale of 1 to 10 being as suggested Black 10 being the lightest

the most natural light level is a 9.

Once we understand the N series we can  the different colour families from. Ash to Gold to Copper and Reds.

As we look at the shade chart we can see the families laid out N for Natural A for ash and so on  so for example a level 6 with Ash would be 6A or 6.1  level 9 with Ash would be 9.I or 9.1 on this bases a Copper Chat level 6 would be  6C or  6. 04 if it was a Copper Red at our level 6 it would be 6CR or 6.45 the first letter or number is always the lead or strongest pigment.

Finally the more high fashion shades .the high lift Blonde tones and cool Violet tones in this instance lets look at V shades less choice because as the shade gets lighter it would become to pink .

Less shade choice only at levels 4 and 5 or 5.07 on the number system.

in closing the colour chart is read down the side scale for shade dark to light across the top for tone most from Ash to violet  lead by  either A.G .C R V .

I hope this has shed a little light on the shade chat any question please post i will as always respond.

when seeking out help for you salon and business take a look at the salon success club and online support program.

The Salon Success Club

Here are some useful links to help you get started. all available main web page Menu.

Salon success why now 

Salon success club rates

Resources salon success

Looking for ways to grow and develop your team take a look at the salon success club and it’s online mentoring program for links and more information see home page menu check out the salon success club house and the  new on line magazine ‘SO’ New issue out next week check out subscription.

Mike B2MR

 Respect Trust vision: “RTV”

Respect:

Do you respect your staff ? Do they respect you? Without respect it can be so very hard if not impossible to have a salon running smoothly without and hitches or staffing issues. How does one gain and retain respect in the work place? First and foremost it’s a two way street other wise known as mutual respect.  How does it work? It’s earned over time by actions, commitment, sharing of a vision. Making positive change happen. Being inspirational to those around you. Being a leader. Being a listener . None of this happens over night it takes time to develop. It can not be brought and yet it is invaluable. Respect encourages those around you to listen and or take action to embrace change. Lack of respect can and is very disruptive it creates many issues especially in a leadership or management situation. Once lost it’s very hard to regain.

In the salon or spa environment respect for each other open communication collaboration will enable the salon to function without distraction, without the dysfunction that can be created when respect is lost and chaos per sues. In one of many forms from staffing issues and poor management decisions general morale. An openness with regard to salon /spa running and the big picture a sharing of a vision a willingness to listen and on occasion make changes is all part of being respected being a leader you also must give respect to those around you. Ultimately this contributes to better salon management a better working environment and so creating an atmosphere that works to the benefit of all concerned. Clients can and do pick up on this. Having a strategy for ongoing success is key working towards your goals and your vision staying focused but open minded enough to adapt to change and the challenges that it can present is also very important.

 Trust: 

Closely and many might say running side by side with respect is ‘Trust’ this we build. Without trust it’s really is very hard to function and get anything done. To not be trusted or have trust in some one or some thing creates negativity it will slowly bring you or your business down. If this is an issue you really do need to spend some time think it through. If it’s a person a team mate employee ask the question. Why? Don’t you trust them. Can it be addressed is it a situation that can be fixed. If not before making that tuff decisions seek advise from those around you, those you respect ! If it’s a thing then it’s much easier however good it might be if it’s not working for you and you cannot get past trusting it get rid of it! Don’t waste time and energy on things that don’t warrant it.

Without Trust in a salon between every member of the team decent can rapidly creep in negative energy can be and is so destructive. If this is the case council those team members work mates managers that you respect and make decisions on how to address and deal with any situation that might arise. Don’t be hasty consider the situation what created it. Decide on an informed course of action. Surround your self with others that share your vision and have your values.

 Vision:

Finally that vision this is yours. In this case it’s of your business but it can relate to any aspect of your life for each and very one should have a vision. In this instance we are relating it to work. Once you have clear vision share it with those around you. Those you Respect and trust make sure they share this vision with you so that you are all working toward the same goal.

By sharing your vision with team members you are not only sharing your vision for the future you are also showing that you respect and trust them. There is a synergy between the three words. That synergy comes to fruition when put into action. When action starts to happen, things start to change, they start to progress. As this happens embark on constructive dialogue with team mates and staff members collaborate encourage  new thoughts and ideas innovative idea’s that might help your vision become a reality for all those sharing it with you.

The look the challenge the journey all working together to make it happen and share in the success. Having a vision a goal is what motivates and drives us sharing a vision with others helps it become a reality.

Have the right team wanting and willing to share your vision respecting your commitment trusting you to share thoughts views opinions trust a willingness to listen and collaborate.

when seeking out help for you salon and business take a look at the salon success club and online support program.

The Salon Success Club

Here are some useful links to help you get started. all available main web page Menu.

Salon success why now 

Salon success club rates

Resources salon success

Looking for ways to grow and develop your team take a look at the salon success club and it’s online mentoring program for links and more information see home page menu check out the salon success club house and the  new on line magazine ‘SO’ New issue out next week check out subscription.

Mike B2MR

 Training Skill Motivation:

How many of us as hairdressers, stylists, salon owners.Really take some time to reflect on our industry it’s future and our own potential,our goals,our vision,our career path?

Can any of us honestly say we know everything you are on top of your game? That being fully motivated on a daily bases giving your all? Constantly striving to keep up to date and current? Or like most of us, you have off days are you having more off days than on? Is going to work hard work is being at work real work maybe even to the point of resentment? Do you resent the clients? maybe those team and work mates! It’s all just to much.

If you missing that excitement that creative buzz, passion, drive, motivation, then something is missing what could that be? It could be one thing it could be the culmination of many. From time to time  take a look in the mirror time for some one on one with self! Well now it’s time to be honest. What ever you work situation environment this might be the Salon. Maybe your self employed. In the case of the salon sometimes its so easy to get wrapped up in the moment to busy, that training product updates fall the way side.

What are the greatest challenges to stylist and salon owners and managers? Building up and retaining clients offering high standards of service. Having that trusting relationship built on skill honesty creative talent! Harmony in the work place  A team working collaborating together with a shared vision for success and supportive unity. As stylists we can so easily get caught up in being busy staying busy slightly over booking that we forget what is really important. The client. The service. The consultation. The after care advice and so sales. Equally important working condition and environment. Salon owners creating a place for all staff to develop and grow have  the skills to produce a high standards have opportunity become an active member for the team having a say in planning of salon development and training.  Open lines of communication a place that encourages free and innovative thinking and sharing.

Over the years I have come to realize that all of the above points are components that lead to success. They are also the main things we as stylist’s and indeed salon owners forget, take for granted. They are the things we need to stay on top of and make part of our daily routine when working with our clients and team members. Challenging our selves to make changes into how we work, how we interact with our clients how we relate to each other  its not  easy it only becomes second nature if we consciously incorporate into our lives and routines.We need to take a long hard look in the mirror and be honest about what needs maybe a little help some adjustment.

I recently wrote a topic about Investing in ones self here is the link

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/2012/01/11/hairdressing-career-investment-in-education-training/

If you self employed taking the time to invest in your self also gets put to the side normally because of time and money issues. If this is the case then we convince our selves that we are doing Ok. You are up date it’s so easy for us to make excuses.The only problem with this is at the end of the day we are hurting our selves and our business we are also and most importantly letting our clients down standards of service drop. With so many new products constantly coming onto the market it’s so important to be informed and knowledgeable both for your own sake and that of your clients. Keratin hair relaxing products, new Ammonia free colour lines. This would be classed as product knowledge. Then  our skills techniques from colouring to cutting then we have the technical side of the equation the how and why’s sometimes gets neglected finding time just to reconnect with others.

.

It is my opinion that all of the above should be reviewed and although not possible to address all  topic’s at  once a plan should be drawn up to keep your business you staff  healthy and strong call it business and personal inventory or attitude adjustment. We all have access to informal seminar’s that are structured to help with salon management, team and staff motivation, Service Consultation and sales. Bad habits form slowly over time but fear not, habits can be broken just takes a willingness change a recognition of habit and indeed skill level finally a little work. It can take as little as three weeks to break habits and start a journey onto a new path of self discovery talent and skill building sharing. Stay at the top of you professional be a real master of your craft. Offer the highest standard of Service. Become a specialist in your field take control of your future your career your life.

If you need help with any of this just ask reach out! I would be happy to work with you or your team. or offer advice on places to get the style of help that works for you.

Salon ownership Chair rental

 A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

 Hair Colour and dye. Do we really know whats in them ? Are they safe can we trust them?

What do you know about Formaldehyde?

What do you know about Ammonia and MEA ?

For some time quite some time now our industry has been seeing more and more products coming to market available for us to use. Many of these products have new chemistry in whilst I’m all for new products. I am also wary of some of the marketing and claims attached to these new products some of the misleading information given to us but profit driven distributors and sales people.

We all have a responsibility to question what these products do how they work and if they are safe fro purpose. Sadly we cannot trust what’s on the box many manufactures are far from homiest with us about the chemistry of some of these products and how they work.

Green, natural, organic , herbal,healthy. Do not always mean what we think Its a play with words to make is us feel good to make us feel safe!

Some facts for us all to know and so i thought I would share some chemistry with those who might be interested. We owe it to ourselves our work mates and our clients to be informed. We have to make the right choices and also pass on the right information.

What do you know about Formaldehyde?  Yes it’s found in many of the keratin relaxer!

What is Formaldehyde? What are the risks?

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

Hair colour or dye hair styling products. How confusing can the information available get?

How confusing is it for. Both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise to try and find some clear useful information and you get material such as below.  Frankly quite shocking! Always remember re-search what ever you are seeking information on if in any doubt search more than one sight or ask i have a contact page happy to offer advise.

With so  many web site so much information posted and no real guidelines as to the quality of said information its up to to the consumer you the stylist to research and never trust things at face value. Question question question. To many posting have a hidden agenda normally leading to a sales pitch or that must have product!!!  Please read the small print and then the ‘BOLD’

lets take a look:

I have written my response in heavy print:

The world of hair colour and dye

TYPES OF HAIR COLOUR:

Permanent Color:

Quote poor advice : Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.

Tubes of pigment

Semi-Permanent Color:

Quote poor advice : Semi permanent Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

formulation

Demi-Permanent Color:

Quote Poor advice: Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses less than 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Temporary hair colours

Semi-Temporary Color:

Quote Poor advice: These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s  sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

semi temporary colour

Temporary/ Color Rinse:

Quote Poor advice: Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hair, they can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                        1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

colour swatch

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLORED HAIR CARE TIPS

Colored and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun it helps protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.

Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade.

Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair.

Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t over dry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style and shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

look colour condition

Review:

What is written in the heavy print is my view. I found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material by professionals within our industry. Please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

The same rules applies when seeking out help for you salon and business take a look at the salon success club and online support program.

The Salon Success Club

Here are some useful links to help you get started. all available main web page Menu.

Salon success why now 

Salon success club rates

 Resources salon success

Looking for ways to grow and develop your team take a look at the salon success club and it’s online mentoring program for links and more information see home page menu check out the salon success club house and the new on line magazine ‘SO’

Enjoy !!! take up the challenge ……………. Mike B2MR

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s .

A place to share thoughts review hair colour/dye and products.

Following on from recent posting on colours /dye copper hair shades and controlling warmth and going lighter. Some thoughts and idea’s on Brown shades to blonde. Shades and tones that work ,things to consider. when colouring and dying hair and considering going lighter.

Spring  early summer a perfect time to think  New hair colour . A shade of Blonde

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you. Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.

Highlighted hair colour

Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while. If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.It was pointed out to me this week in no uncertain terms that Low -lights as a term is no longer used !! I must have my head buried in the sand  for for all those hip right up to the minute stylist who love new terms for old techniques here is the advice i was given

We also don’t say low light’s/INTERLOCKING HIGHLIGHT/MIRCO FIBER COLORING!!!!!!! Personally i think low -light sounds so much better! But maybe I’m wrong ?

Hair colour with highlights and low lights

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull  purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use to help maintain your color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues.

hair colour many shades of blonde

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards.If in any doubt seek professional advise. you cannot lift colour with colour. If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

brunette caramel and beige tones

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be  best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair. Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

light shade could be introduced for summer

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

toned for very natural light blonde tone

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

highlights added for shape and texture

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

hair colour many shades of blonde

In the fall or as we know it in the Uk autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or  possibility of damage. playing with shade and tone without and side effects to conditions whilst allowing seasonal change. In some cases of over lightened hair one would have to rebuild the pigment in the hair if going to a darker shade to tone.

short platinum blonde look

More on this subject available via search of blog topic’s.