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Our Love of hair colour

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 

 

Our Love of hair colour

 

 

 

 

 

As salon owners as stylists our role our job is to be creative to be solution givers problem solvers. None more so than when it comes to our clients and their hair colour and the issues it can present. Be it organic based all natural or synthetic our love of hair Colour is never ending so we need to be well informed.

understanding colour key to success

Here are some facts and useful basic information.Primary Colours:

These are pure Colours they cannot be made by mixing others Colours together. We Use Colour to describe people and emotions, e.g Green with envy, feeling down feeling Blue, seeing Red, Red with anger. Colour surrounds us constantly Changing Sky. Blooming flowers. A world with out colour would be a very dull world indeed, we even use colour to describe how we feel warm cold excited tranquil.

it's all about Red Yellow Blue

We use hair Colour to describe people we have all been guilty of Stereotyping people because by hair colour. The Debate  Gentlemen prefer Blondes! Blondes have more fun! or do they just get noticed quicker? or as suggested in some circle,  ‘Just get dirty quicker’! The Fire associated with red heads hot head out spoken, head strong! or is it self confidence? The Brunette, safe Approachable, Natural, health. inwardly content? maybe. Throughout the ages we have explored different products some natural some chemical to dye and stain our hair be it short term or longer lasting.

Those natural primary colours

Examples of these would be as follows:

True vegetable Dyes: The are derived from Herbs, plants ,flowers, vegetables, and Bark,

[As a note these do not have MEA or products produced from grain Alcohol added to them.] They are true natural infusions or rinses they will enhance hair colour and add shine. Advantages. Natural stain will not enter hair shaft may build up over time. Disadvantage will not cover Grey hair.

TIP Vegetable rinses and Infusions should not be used on Chemically treated hair!

Henna a herbal compound though out history

Henna as a Colour

Red Henna comes from the Dried leaves of the Privet [lawsonia alba] grown in Asia and northern Africa.Natural henna comes from the crushed root.

Natural henna is sometimes mixed with compounds of Metallic salts to produce a range of different colours. Hair coloured with metallic salt henna cannot and should not be coloured with any other products including Hydrogen Peroxide.

If unsure do a strand test,[ Strong discoloration,an unpleasant smell. no colour change, uneven results down hair shaft, in some case applying permanent colour over    the top of Metallic salts can cause a high heat reaction!]

Henna can make appear shinny with more body and natural red hues depending on natural base level! Henna Can over time build up on hair make it brittle it is not possible to chemically remove henna. {Again before attempting any new colour strand testis essential!}

rich shinning healthy

 

SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR

Rich dark Chocolate Brown!

Semi permanent Colour will make the same hair depth as the Natural base shade, good for changing tones gold,red, copper, Burgundy, It works by depositing relatively small colour Molecules in the hair [Red molecule is the largest of all] these products generally have a Ph around 8 to 9 so they do open the cuticle a little, over time can build up and stain ! But in normal case they fade with shampooing as it’s only a partial deposit.

Used a a good introduction with clients to colour. {remember results will vary given hair type, condition, clients colour history, the chemistry of the product, sadly some colour companies mislead us}

product understanding

Advantages:

Useful for enhancing hair colour or refreshing tint applications. adds shine and Gloss.ideal for bold fashion statement . safely used on Permed hair.

Disadvantage:

wash out four to six weeks depending on frequency of washing, result can be patchy uneven, cannot lighten hair,

 

product knowledge

Permanent Colour:

Permanent hair colour affords us the ultimate service: allowing us the choices of infinite shades full Grey coverage. These dyes lighten the hairs natural melanin and tint at the same time. These Dyes will only become effective when mixed with hydrogen peroxide a topic i will cover down the road but at this juncture i will advise the level of peroxide one chooses can and will effect the colour you choose and final result on so many levels! normally comes in  strengths of 10. 3% 20.6% 30.9% 40.12%Volume  Hydrogen Peroxide comes in levels up to 100% nothing more than 40% is recommended for hair application.

[At this point i think things will get to technical if i out line how this process works contact me to discuss}

Problems to watch out for:

Colour fade  this is generally due to the cuticle being raised or damaged. allowing the colour wash out and fade.  This can be result of over processing porosity and Ph of the hair. Another huge mistake many make when doing permanent colour is a root-regrowth application and then combing through that same formulation after a period of time to the mid-lenghts and ends. this leads to muddy colour and over processing one should always colour balance.{ topic for future discussion}.

Rich Demi deposit

Rich reds are possible

Hair resistant to colour:

Strong white or Grey or cause thick  hair the cuticle scales packed close together. In this instance we might need to pre-soften one school of thought is to run 10 vol 3%through the hair leave for 20 mins rinse cool water prior to applying colour.

I think That given that 10 Vol 3% alone could still give some lift and given that Grey hair still holds pigment I might suggest an alternative.

Having chosen you desired natural target level mix as a pre-soften solution 1 part N series{target level} with 1.5 or 1 1/2 times water leave for 20 mins. after this apply your target colour directly  over this application. {proceed as normal root application colour balance.}

 

Bright natural low and high lights

Natural Blonde looks with highlights

 

Advantages :

permanently changes hair colour,

Can lighten and tone at the same time,

100%Grey coverage,

wide choice colour, versatility,

Disadvantages:

requires Client commitment to regular process,

Colour fade especially if hair is or becomes over processed.

Risk of skin allergy irritation : {always do skin test}

In my next blog I will talk about peroxide hair Lift, exposing different pigment in the hair, becoming part of the colour equation,

highlights low lights lift deposit

Many colours can be added to create texture and dimension,

Cool red, natural blonde, beige, we just need to consider the head of hair we are working on.

Finally in these days of hot straitening irons, craving for the sun, Chlorine build up we have to be super careful.

Condition protect cover up !

The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.

Conclusion

This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Leadership
Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
Conclusion
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

I also think that we need to always look at the WhyAsk the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.

IMG_4518

Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

Mike B2MR

The salon and the S word now available in book and e book format for links to purchase and reviews Click here or on the image.

 

The Salon & the ‘S’ Word

 Written by Mike Vallance

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

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