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Understanding hair colour

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 Understanding hair colour

 

 

 

Hair Colour pigment lift deposit .The Relationship between. Natural hair colour, Hydrogen peroxide and Permanent colour is a complex one.

 

 

Understanding hair colour is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour there are so many thing to consider. First and foremost the consultation our time to gain as much information and history as possible our time for some honest and frank questions.

Basic colour wheel

Before we can consider a way forward we have to take into account the natural base colour or natural level of the head of hair  we are working on, assess  the amount of Grey if any, discuss goals and targets, are they realistic? Are they achievable? It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

Permanent colour. This involves both lift and deposit  we have to consider. Do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth? Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.

shade and tone pigment

The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you? As we have introduced this warmth we have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results.We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

shades tone

What makes it challenging:

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry. When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

Lets consider level 6 to 10 is that possible without decolouriser?

Natural level shade chart

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 }

 

 

This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide. 10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking. The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role it plays, how will it influence our colour. Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Technical colour wheel

Note: Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment. So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

10=yellow

9=yellow orange

8= orange

7=red orange

6= Red

 Level to lift 

 Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

shade tone chart

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system,

Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers.

 

 

 

Using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

colour pigment guide

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.

They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs.

 

Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

Trusting and understand your colour wheel  {Note: Different companies place their shades in different location on the wheel depending on the pigmentation of the shade:}

FACT: Most salons that change colour lines through dissatisfaction, with the colour not getting the results they want. In most cases the problems lies with the stylist, lack of knowledge,  poor training, taking short cuts, rarely is it the product! But hey it’s easier to blame a product that look in that mirror and be honest with your self!

 

Natures Colour is around us all the time we just have to take the time to take it in!

Take the time to understand and trust the colour wheel, make choices and decision based on. skill, knowledge, not on guess work and ego.

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Note:  Not understanding or lack of knowledge is not a excuse for a poor job!

The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.

Conclusion

This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Leadership
Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
Conclusion
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

I also think that we need to always look at the WhyAsk the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.

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Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

Mike B2MR

The salon and the S word now available in book and e book format for links to purchase and reviews Click here or on the image.

 

The Salon & the ‘S’ Word

 Written by Mike Vallance

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

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