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Creating High lift Blonde

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Creating High lift Blonde

 

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Creating a Natural Blonde: from a Natural level 6.

When we think about lifting hair from a natural level many things have to be considered to avoid disaster be it with home colour or in a salon it is not just a question of buy the box see the shade slap it on! In this example a level 6 we have to consider the natural hair pigment that is going to come into play through the lifting process. In this case consider  looking at a  target Natural level 9 touching on 10 {As i have stated in the past to go from a level 6 to 10 with high lift tint permanent colour is expecting a great deal from the product!}

 

When thinking this process through and considering the pigment we are going to expose it will help us get a realistic target shade and save the risk of shocks from unwanted or expected tone maybe that unwanted orange or yellow undertone. There is a science to colouring hair it can seem scary mainly because it looks complicated but trust me it’s a great little exercise to do,  a method to learn and trust. As we all know hair colour is always a balance of shades and tone: lift and pigment exposed:

 

 

 

Everything starts with our Red, yellow, Blue { then moves into balance of } orange, green.violet. Lets take a look:

Levels. As we can see on the section of the colour wheel  as we travel from level 6 to level 9-10 we travel from Red orange to undertone to yellow:

Lets take a look at lift:

Level 6 when we lift this level we expose  {Red Orange} R.O = R+R+Y  {to balance} B+Y+B balanced shade.

Technical colour wheel

Level 7 when we lift this level we expose  {orange} O=R+Y  {to balance}  B balanced  shade.

Level 8 when we lift this level we expose  {orange yellow} O.Y=R+Y+ Y  {to balance} B+R+B balanced shade.

Level 9 when we lift this level we expose   {yellow  orange} Y.O=Y+R+Y  {to balance} B+R+B balanced shade.

Level 1O when we lift this level we expose  { yellow} Y=Y  {to balance}  R+B  balanced  shade

Having taken the time to think through the degrees of lift what we will be exposing we need to think about the pigment we need to replace to have the perfectly balanced natural shade.

So Lets think about Balancing:

Level 6 lacks B+Y+B so to balance we need  Ash+ Beige  {ash being blue}  {gold being yellow}

Level 7 lacks  B          so to balance we need   Ash              {blue}

Level 8 lacks  B+R+B so to balance we need   Ash Violet   {blue Violet}

Level 9 lacks  Y+R+Y so to balance we need   Ash Violet   {Blue red Blue}

Level 10 lacks R+B    so to balance we need    Violet          {red blue}

So now we have to come up with our formula to tone the perfect natural blonde.

shades tone

Lets work in Grams 30 = 1 oz .Looking at the above chart we need to count the units of each missing shade.

7 Blue. 3 Red 1 Gold.

The perfect Balance of shades to make a perfect tone:

15 Grams of  Ash { in this case 100A}

10 Grams of Violet{in this case 100V}

5   Grams  of Beige {in this case 100B}

This formulation = 7Blue. 3 Red. 1Gold [yellow}

shade and tone pigment

As we know Ash = Blue   Violet =Red+ Blue Beige= Blue+Yellow

If we look at the above shades chosen for a toner they perfectly balance out the pigment exposed to give us a Natural Blonde no gold no yellow but not dull! Enjoy spend some time thinking about tone shade pigment finding that perfect Balance. consider lift tone deposit, the target colour. Remember it’s not a race it’s a process always remember the law’s of colour trust your colour wheel:

 

The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.

Conclusion

This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Leadership
Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
Conclusion
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

Coming out very soon my first Book ‘The salon and the ‘S’ word Available late Feb 2015

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I also think that we need to always look at the Why. Ask the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.

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Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

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Mike B2MR:  The Salon and the S word 

 

 

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