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Blonde hair colouring and Highlights:

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Blonde hair colouring and Highlights:

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Badly done Blonde hair: WHY?

Why is it that Bad hair colouring is still being done? We have so many wonderfully talented stylist’s. Many Salons full of gifted stylists. A huge variety and choice of products both for professional use and indeed the much promoted over the counter wonder hair colour products [not so good] Choosing the right Professional product company is essential.

 

The question is. Why is there much poorly done over processed badly coloured blonde hair wondering our streets? What is going on? What is going wrong? Is it that our client are to accepting of these looks and standards? Have we as an industry allowed our standards to drop ? Or is bad hair the acceptable norm? Are our client doing more and more home colour? If so we have to ask why?

 

 

 

 

 

Why is this ?

I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair. Really badly done highlights and streaks. An example of this can come in many forms but none are a pretty sight ! They certainly do nothing as a walking advertisement for either our industry or any given salon and or stylist.When things go wrong at home for the client we can try and fix them but what about failure in the salon letting the clients down because of lack of knowledge lack of caring or just low standards! Knowing and trusting the professional products that you chose to work with.

 

I’m using Alter Ego Italy professional products

 

What went wrong: 

Not enough time spent on the consultation, gaining history of  past colouring. Unrealistic goals! Just a bad job! Hum.

In so many cases colour can fade away Oh so quickly Why? Because of over processing lack condition so the hair lacks natural moisture. Patchy streaks dull blonde. Caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this might be yellow blonde lift from bleach de-colourizer. Then selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct toner shade to control yellow,  as we should know and have to consider yellow and blue [ash] make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice.

 

 

Left and right The same model different techniques of colour formulation application, anything is possible.

 

 

 

Correction:

Of course not all of this is caused by stylist’s in the salon. A considerable amount is home done but none should come from the salon. Over processed Blonde out of condition no tone.

My corrective model.

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 Home colour lightening kits: 

All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking restoring balance. As we have covered in previous articles everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair’s natural colour.

Our primary colours. Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

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These two shots above and below show that with knowledge patients and skill anything is possible. In this instance we are managed to create a Blonde healthy tone with texture and dimension. It’s creating a blonde utilising what we had to start with. By adding shade and tone we can break up the over processed blonde look still retaining texture dimension and an overall blond look.

Corrected razor cut colour.

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When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralising and utilising underlying pigment. The chemistry the pigments you have exposed through the lifting process. Hair colouring is all about lift and deposit pigment control shade and tone not just choose a colour and put in on any given head.

shades tone

Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels some have high lift blondes that can push 5 levels you have to ask if lifting from a level 6 to 10 will you get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide? Then consider will the colour always be to gold or yellow! Why? Underlying pigment.

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In this instance I have used the Techno Fruit permanent colour range of products it offers me, many choice of shades and also many options in choice of developer to get the desired deposit whilst not compromising the condition.

Consider the four levels you are lifting through start with level 6 Pigment underlying RO[ red orange] into 7 pigment underlying  O [orange] 8 pigment underlying OY [orange yellow] 9 pigment underlying Y [yellow] thats four levels takes you up to 10 but not into level 10!!

shade and tone pigment

This Chart is such a great tool trust it don’t question it it’s fool proof for pigement control and toning

When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible. As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base. If your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige? It’s all about the balance of tone corrective toner and always Condition. always recommend  the right products to maintain look styles created

IMG_8779Lets go back to level 6 to 10 using 40 volume peroxide. Again really consider the degree of lift possible! Why? Because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 and then into 10 this is your four levels of lift to some 5 to others so is level 10 possible? Maybe its not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach de-colourizer. Decisions to make Or are you skilled enough to know how to manipulate both colour and pigment in formulations? Yes there are ways. I could share with you but hard to just write down warrants explanation. Let me know if your interested. This process warrants some time so you don’t end up with bright over lifted roots! Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is it pre-coloured? Can we lift out that colour? Again what pigment will we expose? What condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? Strand test it  when wet will it stretch? Does it float or sink in water? If it does not float it’s over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

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Consultation.
Look. Touch. Question. Remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest or forgetful about their colour history whether it be an at home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don’t take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!
 Blonde high – lights low lights: IMG_8798

Things to establish in that consolation was the product used Herbal. Ammonia free. Organic. Natural. No lift, No peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!!  Then ask How can this be ? What no Alkaline! Maybe it’s hidden disguised. Get all the information you can. Be the best you can. Understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Ask  your self will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide? Or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider. What it really attainable with regard to tone and look. Want more colour information check out other blog posting and topics. Contact me we can chat about your colour issues and requirements.  always read the technical information provided by the manufacturer, enrol for training events and product knowledge events.  Alter Ego Italy as a progressional product manufacturer offer full support in all there areas.

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Alter Ego Italy professional products are already having success in both the UK and all over Europe and its now ready to launch and be part of the Market in the USA. It’s offering all the things that I hold dear passion and commitment to salon training and support. It has the support from being just one part of a much bigger entity that is striving for success in the salon and hair industry.

The product line is very comprehensive offering professional products to cater for all needs of both the salon and the stylist salon products and retail support for the clients. Many new an exciting things are being launched and coming on line via their web site Alter Ego Italy and various social media platforms.

For  information on Alterego Italy products contact

All Delivered by exclusive salon products. Presented by Alter ego Italy professional products For more information on the products here is the contact information for North America Iceland and Ireland /Uk :Phil Clark  Alter Ego Italy 

For Alter Ego Italy products and information Contact

Sweet Squared Ltd
1 Clayton Wood Bank,
Leeds,
LS16 6QZW: sweetsquared.com | lovecolorproof.comT: 0333 000 7000 | M: 0739 141 5809E: adam.howse@sweetsquared.com

 Comment/review The salon and the S word. 

Enjoying your book. A lot of thought has gone into this book and to be honest I wish that I had read it while operating a business.
The time and effort in explaining the target clientele was good as I feel that most people wouldn’t even think about it. Your subject with dealing with suppliers was very good. I wish that I had studied when working.
There were a lot of questions and points that I was not asking. My overall view of it is that it is well researched, and has good subjects and points. Currently I am on page 56. so lots to read yet!

The salon and the S word now available in book and e book format for links to purchase and reviews Click here or on the image. 

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 The Salon & the ‘S’ Word

 Written by Mike Vallance

Essential for success: commitment, focus, drive, a willingness to make change keeping an open mind. planning. taking responsibility for ones choices making and taking hard decisions. Honesty and staying creatively challenged.

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

You can also find me here on LinkedIn on Twitter MikeB2MR and Facebook Back2myroots B2MR

 

Mike B2MR:

 

 

 

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