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Embracing that Grey hair.

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Embracing that Grey hair.

 

As a hair stylists we all from one time or another we all get asked about for advice relating to Grey hair issues.

 

I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced for it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

 

Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey?

Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it? Is it  Because it’s huge business? Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads. Should we- can we should you embrace your Grey hair and still look stylish and feel young at heart? I think yes?

 

 

 

There are also many options of how to disguise or deal with unwanted Grey hair.

Why is going Grey so random?

Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether?

Why do some start to go Grey so early in life.

How do you suggest to  a client with naturally curly hair how to cope how to work with and embrace grey, The example below was natural level 6 40% Grey, over coloured wanting to work with the grey work on condition but still feel stylish!

Lets take a look.

Around our late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. For the best indication of when someone’s hair will become white, or go Grey look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change. Again it not a process that can be halted.  It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity or seek out professional help and advice. Reaching for that home colour may seem like a quick fix but Grey hair issues can be quite complex and colouring once started needs to be kept up!  Have a consultation with  professional.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives.

I never apply just one shade or tone I always use Hi-lite wraps   You will see the applications of the papers in some of the images posted. I thank W.R Rayson for the support they have given me by providing products for classes and demonstrations in the past.

Find them follow them on face book. W.R Rayson Face book 

Danielle Buscemi   Export Coordinator

W.R. Rayson Export 720 S. Dickerson St.

Burgaw, NC 28425

910-259-8100 ext.126

dbuscemi@wrrayson.com

 

Scenario’s and solutions

Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with. Again consultation is the stylist listening to your concerns are they offering solutions?

Trying to attain a very light blonde in an effort to hide the Grey. This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment. In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue allowing for great condition to be maintained.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones.

 

They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing of the hair less maintenance.

 

 

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair.

When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

 

 

At this stage we want to work with the Grey.

Use the lowest chemistry possible “YES” 3% 10 vol can often work very well it will often give better coverage than a higher volume developer work with what you have, embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, it looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks. Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman. The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful.

As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many with The techniques. The formulations.The products. But in the end we have to have the knowledge and skill we have to be able to communicate, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen offer positive honest solutions.

The choices and options available are many. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options. Be wary of “That quick fix colour”. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly.

Note to stylists.

If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them. In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone bases this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. In closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this. A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products are an essential.

For the client: Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a professional consultation. As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products. Thank I hope this is useful to both stylists and our clients.

Quote :  from a reader 

Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read!

These are the things that we all have to consider when considering both the product but also so importantly the support and training offered and delivered.

The product line is very comprehensive offering professional products to cater for all needs of both the salon and the stylist salon products and retail support for the clients. Many new an exciting things are being launched

The products that I use are Presented by Alter ego Italy professional products For more information on the products here is the contact information for North America Iceland and Ireland /Uk :Phil Clark  Alter Ego Italy 

Haircare BDM UK/ Ireland

Sweet Squared Ltd
1 Clayton Wood Bank,
Leeds,
LS16 6QZW: sweetsquared.com | lovecolorproof.comT: 0333 000 7000 | M: 0739 141 5809E: adam.howse@sweetsquared.com
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 The Salon & the ‘S’ Word

 Written by Mike Vallance

Essential for success: commitment, focus, drive, a willingness to make change keeping an open mind. planning. taking responsibility for ones choices making and taking hard decisions. Honesty and staying creatively challenged.

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