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Sun kissed low lights from high lift colour.

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Sun kissed low lights from high lift colour.

Sun kissed low-lights from high lift colour  Yes we can create some stunning effects using the lifting qualities of a high lift colour and utilising the calibrated pigment control qualities that it offers us.

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Of course we have to remember a few things here, a tube of colour does not have brain it does not work miracles, used correctly in conjunction with a consultation with the right shade and tone target with the right formulation a great deal can be achieved. Of course it will not work on hair that had been previously coloured.

Lets take a moment to think about high lift blonde shades. In this instance AlterEgo Italy be Blonde Pure diamond Lift. Most high lift colours will deliver 4 shades of lift “Be Blonde Pure diamond” is up to 5 shades of lift with full pigment control.

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Of course thinking about our target and the process is essential to getting ones target colour shade and the correct degree of lift and deposit. For example when lifting from level a natural level 3, we have to lift through level 3 into 4 on to 5 through 6 into 7 and through 7 so this could be seen as 4 or 5 levels of lift depending on which end of the level 7 spectrum you wish to be in. Orange or Orange yellow this in-turn will dictate the high lift shade you wish you mix. Formulation, application, timing are all essential here.

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We can now look at the area’s to consider and the possibilities that are available to us are endless.

Low Lights: The  most natural form of High- Low Lights: When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind. Those tones shades that natural lightening of the hair pigment create. Those tones just a few shade lighter than our natural base shade that add dimension tone and shine. In so many cases a client will ask for low lights that few shades of lift for a natural look they can end up with a bleach de-colouriser cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment or toner to control the lift.

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A Different approach:

Consider this a natural hair level 1.2.3.4.5 These are what would normally be considered as the darker shades. Brown through to Dark brown even black: {Asian hair}

shade and tone pigment

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process.

{We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange!} YES! for sure as we lift !

shades tone

To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind, we need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose.

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During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history  this plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? if all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter!

 

DO NOT USE PURE DIAMOND LIFT: 

/ to tone lengths and ends

/ to tone bleached hair

/ to lift colored hair

/ mixed with other color families

/ under heat

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Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour: { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are} My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using it !! in your formulation:

High Lift Blonde permanent colour: To create low lights

This method dictates  that you fully understand pigment lift deposit, that you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range they are calibrated for pigment control.

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Question!

DOES THE PRODUCT HAVE ENOUGH PIGMENT CONTROL? To give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange? useful tool below

Examples: of high lift Blonde shades: Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide/Cream developer, development time up to 50 Mins “FOR LIFT AND DEPOSIT” Heat should not be required { heat can be very bad in the colour process}

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You can see the various shades

*Ash[HL1]

*Beige[HL7]

*Irise[ HL2] might be seen a violet.

*Pearl, Ash[HL9.1]

Natural or clear. A natural/ clear with some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade but always consider when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation. mixing rations and timing are key here. Mixing Ration with Be blonde Pure Diamond Lift 1 part colour 2 parts 40 vol cream developer 50 minutes process time full saturation of the hair is essential.

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Some colour lines will also offer gold high lift, this I find odd as Gold is often what we are fighting when trying to get shade and tone.

The Be Blonde Pure diamond Blonde series on it’s own will give a nice controlled low light but will not control any pigment exposed if you chose to just use a Natural/ clear or pigment free product, remember, Pigment free or natural will only expose the pigment at the level you are lift to so any lift will create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment within this level.

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Given that most manufactures claim 4/5 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect?Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7. As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light. Is Ash enough in a formulation?

The 40 volume Hydrogen/ developer giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed! The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide/developer I think it still better than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

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Multi shades very natural looking: Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base.

As an alternative one colour always use a lower volume at the roots and  slightly stronger volume for the mid lengths and the 40 volume on the ends this would add a different dimension to the look a world of possibilities from one colour line Alterego Italy

Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour. Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing! Have fun let me know how you get on!

This is why I am so enjoying discovering all the amazing possibilities that Alterego Italy offer to me and you, with their comprehensive range of products offering a product for every situation even look every hair type, the support and education they offer to the professional innovative creative and inspiring.

Remember always carry out a strand test. Get professional advise or a consultation. For those wanting to try a darker shade. Without care thought and attention to the process a Gothic look caused from going to dark can happen. Bad hair Bad High lights can be quite common place,always research your products think about your formulations.

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The product line is very comprehensive offering professional products to cater for all needs of both the salon and the stylist salon products and retail support for the clients. Many new an exciting things are being launched and coming on line via their web site Alter Ego Italy and various social media platforms.

Alter Ego Italy is proud to be the only Italian brand, specialized in professional hair care.

If you would like more information on this product line you can contact. Phil Clark Alter Ego Italy 

The salon and the S word now available in book and e book format for links to purchase and reviews Click here or on the image. 

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The Salon & the ‘S’ Word

 Written by Mike Vallance

 

 

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