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Summer time vibrant copper hair with curl

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mike vallance

Summer time vibrant copper hair with curl

When hair starts to fade and look dull its time to jazz things. When a percentage of grey hair is also part of or contributing to the the dull issue more consideration needs to be given to target colour and formulations required. Formulation! Yes. When  dealing with grey hair a re-growth and faded colour more than one formulation is required to colour balance and achieve the best results.

IMG_9335I would like to share this colour service /exercise the formulation and products used and the process.

As you can see this model has faded hair a small re growth maybe 1/2 inch  and also has about 25% Grey hair to contend with I will be using products supplied to me by Alterego Italy manufactures of salon professional products.

When addressing these issues and after in depth client consultation one should first of all take a few moments to consider the best course of action to attain the desired look style colour.

We are problem solvers and our job is to listen toy our clients concerns and issues and offer solution. Having agreed on a colour shade and tone formulation has to be considered addressing the roots area in this instance first for the roots application I will be using the “Techno Fruit permanent colour by Alterego this is a low ammonia base colour that incorporates their Keratin delivery system it is soft on the hair very versatile and highly conditioning.



I always weigh hair colour on a digital scale. I also always write down what i’m doing incase more formulation is required, its is essential in the salon to keep up to date client records. I work in grams but some still work in ounces most scales allow for both settings 30 grams is approximately 1 oz. our mixing ratio is part part colour to 1.5 x developer.


The formulation: Working with 25% we this assessment we have to include some of our N series in the formulation to replace lacking pigment, this will give our colour depth of shade and tone without drab-ing out our target colour our vibrant copper, the models natural hair is level 7.

6 grams of 7N + 18 Grams of 7.43 { Copper Gold } total 24 grams less tan 1 ounce or a third of a tube!  for our roots application we will be using 6% or 20 volume developer 36 grams just over 3 oz  total formulation for root application 60 grans 2 ounces. This formulation will also expose the natural warm pigment found at this level, we are opting to utilise the pigment exposed at this level. process time 35 Mins so we have to work fast with our colour balancing.

With this amount of grey and working at a natural level 7 one could also not use the 7N in the formulation and increase the developer to 30 volume with a longer process time , you are giving the colour more oxygen to develop the colour molecules and the colour has enough pigment to prevent hot roots. However  if in doubt use the N series also its dependant on the % of grey at the natural level.


I am going to use two products and formulation  one will be there Techno fruit” with only 10 volume or 3% developer for deposit only the other will be using a direct dye, The Passion colour mask a gentle deposit only colour.



My first colour balance formulation is 8.4 yes one shade lighter than the roost the ends are faded they don’t require more lift and the this will balance perfectly with our roots application. given the lift we will be getting from our 20 volume or 3% root application.

Formulations: 8.4 25 grams. Developer mixing ratio 1 to 1.5 developer 37 grams or just over 1 ounce. Total product 62 grams. Again just over 2 ounces. Finally I also want to add some texture and vibrancy to this colour balancing with our passion colour mask this come directly fro m the pump applicator into a bowl for this I have mixed two shade together caramel 15 grams 1/2 ounce and Orange 15 grams 1/2 ounce. mixed well together I check the shade chart to make sure that these two shades complement each other when mixed.

My gaol was to apply the two formulations at the same time working the 8.4 formulation in med length to ends and pulling out selected free hand style chunks an d running the brighter Passion mask formulate through these areas I pulled out or selected the lighter or more faded strands for the brighter formulation.

*In total we used less than 2/3 of a tube of  “Techno fruit” permanent colour.

* 1 ounce of “Passion colour mask”

*just over 2 ounces of developer  3% and 6% this was an application on should length hair. this ratio make the product very appealing when looking at salon costing essential in the salon today. to often to much product is mixed and wasted this cost the salon greatly over a year.



Process time for the roots application 35mins for the colour balancing 30 mins speed is essential when doing this sort of application as is being thorough with ones application preparation time for mixing and being organised hep greatly with this.

Finally rinse off working the colour up to lift it from the skin /scalp prior to washing and conditioning prior to styling.


Above : Colour washed off and dried but only roughly no product or bushes. This I think shows off how shiny an soft the hair looks. My goal is to know apply some product and style with using a ceramic flat iron straightener and The Carbonite Pro hair Styling Curling rods these wands are fantastic. Used in conjunction with a quality styling product a seen on the left of picture the “Hasty Too range”  IMG_4128

Hair Does not get hot keeping your hair in excellent condition.
Hair slides off the rod cool, for unbelievable shine.
They make curling hair easier and safer to use than any other product available,
are designed to work specifically with your hair straightener . From Sexy waves to spiral curls anything is possible.
At last a product that works. The curls last much longer, are shinier, healthier and bouncier than any other method of curling hair around.


The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.


This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.


This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.
They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

I also think that we need to always look at the WhyAsk the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.


Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

Mike B2MR

The salon and the S word now available in book and e book format for links to purchase and reviews Click here or on the image.

The Salon & the ‘S’ Word

 Written by Mike Vallance

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