Offering the highest standard of salon consultancy, salon coaching and skills development

Hair Colour correction make over

 

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: 

mike vallance

 Hair Colour correction make over

What is the hardest challenge in a hair colour make cut make over?

Firstly and foremost doing hair colour correction is highly skilled and certainly not for the fait hearted technician it can often be really challenging for any of us.

This leads nicely on to the hardest form of colour correction.What might that be? Over processed mud coloured hair no real pigment to work with and hair that really is lacking any condition. We have to give consideration as to what would be the best products for the job!

IMG_8783

This situation is normally created when hair has been over coloured then in an attempt to fix it goes wrong due to poor assessment or applying the wrong product shade or tone. This situation is often caused when all the shades neutralise each other out creating a muddy dull life less colour and really poor condition. This type of situation happens a great deal and can be very challenging to correct

Our fix & challenge: 

Below we have a model with one such issue. She was blonde home coloured kit, it went every wrong and so she went to salon for help to take it back to a solid more natural colour with a view to getting it back in to condition and then over time, the goal to have it  corrected  and then to have it looked after professionally.

The result below is  a good example of if you don’t know what your doing if its out of your comfort zone don’t do it! The Salon took on the correction, it apparent they had no idea how to rebuild a pigment base in the hair the result speaks for it self.

Frankly when I saw this I was appalled that a salon could do this and charge for it. Not to mention let the client leave in such a nasty state.

The Fix:

After much consultation honest discussion it was agreed that a great deal of the really damaged hair had to come off. The client agreed that any colour that would look healthy and work with her skin tone and eye colour would work as a starting point to hair recovery.

My challenge was what colour could I get this too! That would work and hold?

Firstly I had to remove the muddy shade without over processing the hair more. A bleach cocktail worked into the hair a mixture of.

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 volume or 6% peroxide cream developer

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly. Once this has been done and desired level of lift has been achieved we now have a canvas to work on and from. The muddy tone removed leaving a slightly yellow undertone.

IMG_8776

It was decided that allowing for some fading and possible future change in direction of colour. That a warm or red tone would be a great way forward. Warmer tones will always give you a better base than cool or ash tones they will also allow you more flexibility to change and switch direction.

shades tone

It is also my feeling that when re building a pigment base one does not have to nor should use permanent colour formulation [ my thinking being why put more peroxide on over processed hair?] Demi formulation are all you need along with some patients as you build up the required pigment mantle.

structure

of course developer is required codevelop the colour molecules as non direct dye so not fully developed colour molecules this colour development only happens on application and in the formulation process time as the process allows the pigment to penetrate into the cortex layer for deeper deposit of the maturing colour molecules.

IMG_8954

A more permanent solution can be thought of once the hair condition has recovered. It may seem like it is a slow process but applying different layers of colour over each other in the long term will give you much better colour retention.

shade and tone pigment

I decided to use the the Alterego Techno fruit with only 10 vol 3% developer enough to activate the colour molecules but give as little lift as possible. Two different formulations were applied firstly 7/4 applied to wet hair with our low volume developer working it well into the hair this can seem quite radical and shocking but we need to get some warmth back into the hair its lacking so much pigment. The hair was very porous so so this type of colour really is drawn into the hair.

IMG_8777

Understanding hair colour is essential to wash this off prior to adding our target colour will only serve to change the environment and wash out what we have achieved.

 

 

Target colour directly over the top 6/656 again only 3% developer mixing ratio 1 part colour 1.5 times developer the darker shade and the cool ness of the red i.e. blue control will take president over the first application at level 7 this then gives us the cool red we wanted. Finally rinse rinse rinse light shampoo and then close down with a re acidifier or chemical balancer. this is essential to locking in the colour and closing the cuticle.

IMG_8782

The above is the result we managed to achieve and the look was created using a razor to give a soft shattered bob with lots movement and texture.

The result healthy looking hair a happy client who over the following months grew her hair out to being long and blonde with highlights and low lights. It took.Time and patients. Communication Consultation. That is what we do in our profession service skill honesty always be professional.

 

It is essential in these instances to have an drive a full consultation this invokes commitment to working with the slain to maintain the colour and also working on a home maintenance plan with recommended professional salon retail products. If this does not happen the colour will fade and wash “OUT” and the condition will not improve!

AlteregoItaly

Alter Ego Italy professional products are already having success in both the UK and all over Europe and its now ready to launch and be part of the Market in the USA. It’s offering all the things that I hold dear passion and commitment to salon training and support. It has the support from being just one part of a much bigger entity that is striving for success in the salon and hair industry.

The product line is very comprehensive offering professional products to cater for all needs of both the salon and the stylist salon products and retail support for the clients. Many new an exciting things are being launched and coming on line via there web site Alter Ego Italy and various social media platforms.

For more information on the products or the Brand new Uk Academy here is the contact information:

Available now my first Book ‘The salon and the ‘S’ word Available Now Click here for details 

Image

 

Alterego Image

IMG_8678

highlights low lights

Reviewing a new colour line:        Reviewing :High lift blonde.by Alterego Italy

Techno Fruit. Hair colour click above to read reviews on this colour line.

Mike B2MR

 

 

 

Leave a Reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.