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Ammonia free professional hair colour

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mike vallance

Ammonia free professional hair colour

Having been very pleased with the results of the Alter Ego Italy “Techno fruit” professional hair colour. I’m now ready to put to the test the Ammonia free hair colour“My Color” to see how it compares with the” Techno fruit” to see if it covers and copes as well with Grey hair issues given the different alkaline driver that ammonia free hair colour has to offer as an alternative.12196316_601499763360968_781322084198238180_n


*Is one really better than the other?

*Is one safer?

*Better for condition

*What are those features and benefits for the salon client?

Alterego offers so many different products for hair colouring something for every salon and stylist so much so that finding the right products for the right situation and indeed the one that works best for the client is never an issue, versatility and quality are oder of the day always!


Taking the time to think about that formulation the process the service you are delivering this is essential for successful results.Take the time to consider the lift and deposit you require, do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment that can be exposed in the formulation you chose! Strength or level of developer is key to this decision volume or percentage? Whats level is best!




I also want to colour balance or fresh with the “Passion colour” when colour balancing to restore shine condition as well as refreshing the old colour.

My model has natural level 7 hair its Gold, copper [Gc] hair with about 20% Grey very thick hair that is great to play with style and manipulate it sits a shoulder length and has quite a lot of wave to it. The client likes it to have colour and a look that shows off Curl.Volume and Texture.


The mixing ratio with the My colour is 1 part colour to 1 to 1 1/2  x developer, weighing the colour will always give you an accurate formula that can be recreated. Keeping good client records is always advised. I always think that as stylist and technicians when choosing a hair professional hair colour produce one needs to take the time to read the technical information to fully understand what they are using and so can expect from the product. This includes reading all the technical information supplied!

It is advised that with this unique colour formulation that you never use a mixing ratio other than that advised that being 1 to 1.5 this delivers true to swatch coverage.

Due to the unique nature of these partially developed colour molecules 30Voloume or 9% developer will deliver more oxygen to help with the development of the colour molecules. Its is also  suggested that you chose a target level one shade lighter than your desired target level due to the deep delivery of the colour molecules.



In this instance when a product is Ammonia free understanding what the alkaline driver is helps with understanding how the colour works consult the technical manual for information. Keep up to date client records so that formulation can be repeated when necessary or changed as required.


shade and tone pigment

Working “My colour” Ammonia free range my target colour is 7.4  the client has  20% Grey so that amount of N 7 will be added to the formulation for the Grey coverage and pigmentation my root application.

Consult your colour wheel to help you with your formulation:

shades tone

Formula is as follows: 3grams 7N.  12grams 7.4. Total 15 grams or 1 oz + 30grams of 20 vol 0r 6%. total formula 45 grams or 1 1/2 Oz. This should be an ample amount of product of afoot application without waste! Given that the tubes are 3.38 oz or 100ml you should get at least 3 root applications per tube of colour! The size of the tubes and mixing ratio are very important when a salon is costing out any product for viability and profitability this one works!

Basic colour wheel



Sometimes stylist or technician will question the amount of any formula used for this exercise I took pictures of the product to demonstrate that formal above would be sufficient to do a root application.


When working I like to try and be organised so that application can me made with the  process time of the products we have a total application process time of 35 minutes. My next goal is to add some brighter streaks using the “Just colour” product range, not in your face bright but to create texture and shine I want to mix a copper orange shade again mixing and weighing the product is essential 10 grams of  Yellow tale just colour and 3 grams of Red Elvis just colour. Mixing them together in the glass bowl provided helps see the shade mixed.


As I weaved the section I applied some of the acidifying spray and dried quickly with a dryer prior to apply the product as high lights keeping this product away from the root application theses would stay on for a max time of 30 mins but because my goal is bright but not I your face I will leave for 20 minutes process time this works with the root application timing as well


Finally I wanted refresh and colour balance whilst also trying out the “Passion colour” line this is a tone on tone colour that is applied on wet hair so I will have to spray the hair that as yet has not been coloured, again working fast and efficiently.


Passion colour:  

In this  instance it will be tone on tone deposit so it will present different tone sand texture I will be using the Caramel and leaving for the final process time of 5 minutes. I am allowing 60 grams of product that is about 2 oz again I pumped this into a owl and weighed the product.



Now its time to wash off  the colour and condition, rinsing really well to start with, under normal circumstances the just colour is only rinsed so by washing it off I am going to greatly dilute down its effect I know this and its going to give me the tone I want having already played around with this products see the earlier blog link above.

IMG_4127My goal has as started was to test the ammonia fee colour as a root application refresh with passion colour and add a little extra tone to give it some shine depth of colour and texture. Washed off end conditioner with the colour care product range ideal for salon and home use.




To show off the shade ad tones I have added some mousse to the hair and blown it out strait and smooth using the “Hasty too mousse” allows me to still get some volume and body into the blow dry prior to adding the texture to it for a full soft look. I very much like blowing hair out to show of the colours and tones when smooth hair shows this off much better than when curled its the way the light bounce soft the smoother surface that helps with is.


The root coverage delivers by the “My colour” ammonia free hair colour was really nice the coverage was great the condition and shine on the hair was exceptional. The Passion colour did a great job colour balancing the whole head and I’m really please that I added the extra brother tone using the “Just colour”

My goal with hair colour is always to have shade tone and dimension not just one felt colour hair is and should be multi tonal using these products choosing the right formulations allow me to create the colour look and style I want for my client.


My job is almost done apart from the fact that the client loves colour but also loves curl, wave, volume, texture. So to the styling! Taking if from smooth and shiny just take time an patients having used the mousse on the hair “Hasty Too”

It will be much easier to style with a hot large crimping iron to create the desired wave and volume this again will show of the dimension created by the various colours shade sand tones that have beed added.


Below right and left texture wave and curl created using Alterego styling products having coloured with three products from the Alter Ego Italy hair colour product range.











Alter Ego Italy professional products are already having success in both the UK and all over Europe and its now ready to launch and be part of the Market in the USA. It’s offering all the things that I hold dear passion and commitment to salon training and support. It has the support from being just one part of a much bigger entity that is striving for success in the salon and hair industry. The product line is very comprehensive offering professional products to cater for all needs of both the salon and the stylist salon products and retail support for the clients. Many new an exciting things are being launched and coming on line via their web site Alter Ego Italy and various social media platforms.

Alter Ego Italy is proud to be the only Italian brand, specialized in professional hair care. If you would like more information on this product line you can contact.

Adam Howse

Haircare BDM UK/ Ireland

Sweet Squared Ltd
1 Clayton Wood Bank,
LS16 6QZW: | lovecolorproof.comT: 0333 000 7000 | M: 0739 141 5809E:

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 Written by Mike Vallance

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