Offering the highest standard of salon consultancy, salon coaching and skills development

Natural level 7 to a warmer copper shade

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS: B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

mike vallance

Natural level 7 to a warmer copper shade

Alterego Image

What are the issues we have to consider when working with a natural level 7 with 30% Grey hair wanting a natural level 8 copper blonde. Wanting a new look new colour new style!


During the consultation we have assess the percentage of Grey  hair so we can consider the formulation required to get full grey coverage the degree of lift and the amount of warmth we expect to encounter and use all major considerations to get the right shade and tone.

The intention or goal is to lift the hair enough to bring out the natural warm pigment and utilise it to give us a natural shade and tone with the required grey coverage.

We have to be able to trust in the products we are using will they give us the lift and pigment control we require to reach or attain our target colour will they also give us the grey coverage required.

As we all know hair colour the chemistry the technology is constantly evolving. It is my humble opinion that Italians produce the best hair pigment for hair colour. In this instance the Alterego Italian professional hair colour has reaffirmed through the Techno fruit hair colour range that high quality hair colour is still very much available and that you do get what you pay for. That service and technical support are essential with any colour line. This colour comes 100ml or over 3oz tube with a mixing ration of 1part colour  to 1.5 part developer. Its  very smooth constancy makes it easy to apply covers well an does along way.IMG_8783

Things to consider: Formulation Target colour. 

Natural level 7 will produce or present some orange pigment in the lifting process sometimes this may be an issue and could create hot or bright roots depending again on there formulation decided upon. However in this instance the warmth is required but we must control it.  A natural 8N series colour have a blue violet base to control warmth exposed knowing this we have control of the warmth we want to expose.


Working from our level 7 and having discussed  issue that we might encounter we are wanting a natural level 8 we will require 20 volume developer for our root formulation this will lift us through level 7 into level 8 it will enable us to deposit enough pigment to address the grey issue and bring out the warmth we wish to utilise to get the desire shade. Lifting through level 7 will expose {orange} lifting up into level 8 will expose {yellow orange}Our natural level 8 shade will have a blue violet base this will control the exposed pigment perfectly giving us the Grey coverage we require whilst giving us the controlled warmth that gives us our target colour shade and tone.



We also will have to colour balance using a different formulation for the mid lengths and end as they will not require any lift just refreshing we can achieve this using a 8.4 [copper]  with a Demi formulation for deposit only colour to colour balance without added processing or lift that can over time create damage and effect the hairs condition only 0% lift.

Alterego Italy


To make it a little more interesting one might consider lifting a few panels a little lighter I chose to do this but intentionally did not take the lift to the roots rather wanted a slightly grown out look. Using a low volume bleach/ decolourising formulation I lifted the hair a few shades still leaving warmth to complement the overall look. The chart below shows the relationship between levels undertone and pigment required to control or balance the warmth exposed.

shade and tone pigment

It is always fun to play with colour and formulation none more so that when creating a new look /style. If we take the time to consider the head and environment we are working on if we establish the full past colour history during the consultation and if we think the process through choose the right formulation we can achevie very natural fun shades and tones. In this instance have razor cut the hair off we were able to play knowing that we would not be dealing with any pigment build up in the mid lengths and ends.


Adding a hint of blonde just softens the area around the face framing is and creating an added texture and dimension. In some cases when lifting the hair in this manner a toner may be require but again if you chose the right level of developer and are patient then you can work with what you expose.


I think the key to successful colouring is the in the consultation and taking the time to consider options discussing with the client whats possible listening to their wishes, considering the environment we are working in whilst also considering the ongoing maintenance and of course what will show of the cut and look best on the client as a style and look in the weeks ahead. Recommend products to maintain the colour and style the hair this helps our clients com ego term with home management and styling all part of the service.


Alterego Italy professional products are already having success in both the UK and all over Europe  and its now ready to launch and be part of the Market in the USA. Its offering all the things that I hold dear passion and commitment to salon training and support. It has the support from being just one part of a much bigger entity that is striving for success in the salon and hair industry.


The product line is very comprehensive offering professional products to cater for all needs of both the salon and the stylist salon products and retail support for the clients. Many new an exciting things are being launched and coming on line via there web site Alterego Italy   and various social media platforms.

For more information on the products or the Brand new Uk Academy here is the contact information:


The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.


This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

Coming out very soon my first Book ‘The salon and the ‘S’ word Available Now Click here for details 




Alterego Image


highlights low lights



Reviewing a new colour line:        Reviewing :High lift blonde.

by Alterego Italy

Techno Fruit. Hair colour click above to read reviews on this colour line.

I also think that we need to always look at the Why. Ask the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.


Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

You can also find me here on LinkedIn on Twitter MikeB2MR and Facebook Back2myroots B2MR

Alterego Italy  salon exclusive professional Hair colour and salon products / client retail a very exciting range of products designed for those with a mind for quality  passion and creativity.

Mike B2MR

Comments are closed.