Offering the highest standard of salon consultancy, salon coaching and skills development

Professional Permanent hair colour.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS: B2MR.

mike vallance

Professional Permanent hair colour. 

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Professional permanent hair colour.

 The N series Designed to control warmth address Grey issues and provide natural colour and add to control depth and tone os shades and target colour. Some colourist of the mind that  “rules are made for breaking” Hum! Ego! is alive and well. I say “understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !



When we think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? We pull out that shade chart but do we use it correctly? Be it to refer as our guide or in some cases do we just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!! Do we understand what we can learn how to use the chart correctly? Have we read the technical manual with it? Do we understand it ! [ you may be smiling it happens] How often do you consider. What you want from that colour that tube of pigment.

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal over use of the N series in a colour formulation can and will drab out your colour! Under use in a formulation can result in hot roots! Do you understand the calibration of your N series in relation to pigment control. Do you really take the time to think about formulation.



My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade? Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. What pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour.


Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. Back to question pigmentation. Do you understand it? The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! hum what does this mean? Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.


If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? What do we, should we expect to happen?



The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel] below high lift blonde shades with low lights for added dimension

Highlights and low lights

Having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue we have created. What do we need?

With Techno fruit the pigment quality and concentration allows the technician and stylist to think out side the box, use a higher level of developer and so introducing or making Oxygen more available to your formulation allowing for greater lift deposit and tone, In some cases with the Techno Fruit the N series is not required consult the amazing shade chart.


With so many options are available it not possible to get great results.

Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural.  We have to control that yellow orange and restore balance. A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. We have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it.


Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. a Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

shade and tone pigment

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose how do i control it! it’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

shades tone

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level!


Please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! A tube of colour does not have  brain. So to blame it when things go wrong comes down to technical knowledge and ability. It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use, it’s application is down to you.

Re search the manufacture the product line understand how it works, get educated work with a colour company that offers training an support a true professional company,Yes they do still exists!

Alterego Image

A poor Colourist technician. Stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour! Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! education skill knowledge Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.


The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise!



Have fun be professional responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can. Use the best product you can and be educated on these products. Don’t take short cuts with technical work or in any aspect of your career as a stylist or salon owner,challenge your self and those around you collaborate communicate grow as individuals and as a team. Create your success create salon success!

Many more issues and different views and opinions can arise from this topic but i hope this creates thoughts and raises some questions maybe even comments.

Over time one can take a natural red head or even a client with darker red /brunette shades lighter and get some really nice shades and tones. Aways consider the lowest chemical formulation possible the final shots with the latest hair cut and colour are a Demi application tone on tone its works with the percentage of grey hair to deliver a soft colour yet leaving natural tone and dimension.

The colour and styles above are all the same model.


Alterego Italy professional products are already having success in both the UK and all over Europe  and its now ready to launch and be part of the Market in the USA. Its offering all the things that I hold dear passion and commitment to salon training and support. It has the support from being just one part of a much bigger entity that is striving for success in the salon and hair industry.


The product line is very comprehensive offering professional products to cater for all needs of both the salon and the stylist salon products and retail support for the clients. Many new an exciting things are being launched and coming on line via there web site Alterego Italy   and various social media platforms.

For more information on the products or the Brand new Uk Academy here is the contact information:


The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.


This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

Available now my first Book ‘The salon and the ‘S’ word Available Now Click here for details 



Alterego Image


highlights low lights



Reviewing a new colour line:        Reviewing :High lift blonde.

by Alterego Italy

Techno Fruit. Hair colour click above to read reviews on this colour line.

Alterego Italy  salon exclusive professional Hair colour and salon products / client retail a very exciting range of products designed for those with a mind for quality  passion and creativity.

All Delivered by exclusive salon products. Presented by Alter ego Italy professional products For more information on the products or the Brand new Uk Academy here is the contact information:PhilClark Alter Ego Italy UK, yesterday launched their new offices and brilliant NEW ERA ACADEMY. Congratulations to Tony, Paula and team for a very successful day and indeed future! Please contact the UK team through myself or Tony on +44 (0) 7411 345 376 or +44 (0) 345 871 6456.

I also think that we need to always look at the Why. Ask the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.


Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

You can also find me here on LinkedIn on Twitter MikeB2MR and Facebook Back2myroots B2MR



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