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Reviewing: High lift blonde by Alterego Italy

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mike vallanceReviewing :High lift blonde by Alterego Italy

 Techno Fruit. Hair colour

AlteregoItaly

As stated last week when testing and reviewing the gold and copper shades from the Alterego colour range its quite rare for manufacturer to be so open about their products give free rein with a review and be nothing but helpful with disclosure of information and support material.

As stylists be that salon working, freelance or mobile we are constantly searching for new products. We are constantly looking for products that will help us create the styles and looks we are working towards, of course with this in mind we all have to stay current and up to date as new products come to market we have to research and question to find out how they work and if what is claimed in the features and benefits really works.

One of the biggest issues we have is trying to find shades of blonde that work a colour line that allows us lift  and without having to use bleach/De-colouriser. A colour line that will not only lift but also have enough pigment to control the warmth exposed at the level we are working from and towards for understanding this is essential to working with High lift permanent colour products. With this in mind I have touched on this topic in a previous blog but not as a review just a string of information on working with high lift blonde colour Alterego Image

The review:

My goal was to take a model with a natural level 6 with a healthy 6 months wroth of regrowth and be able to blend the colour with out using bleach as a high light. I also wanted control of warmth from the high lift blonde. As stated Alterego provided me with the shades I requested colour and developer.

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The shades I decided to use were as follow:

HL.O = High lift natural i decided on the natural to test the pigment control without the extra pigmentation of either ash or violet [ this would have been to easy]  mixed with 40 vol “COACTIVATOR” their custom high lift developer. with unto 5 shades of lift. mix 1 part colour /2 parts developer

9N  = For a natural yet controlled shade. 30 vol roots application only mix 1 part colour 1.5 times developer

7/7 = For a subtle beige brown low light, 10 vol roots mid length ends low light. mix 1 part colour 1.5 times developer

These shades and indeed the formulations mixed were chosen to challenge both the colour the shades the tones and the pigment control. But to also challenge the product especially its pigment control qualities.

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As stated natural level 6  the goal being to blend the roots to the mid lengths and ends the client /model did not want to be to light she has a 3 week old baby and feels it will look more natural blended and would like to move away from being quite so blonde.

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Roots and build up of colour can be an issue for many in this instance the high lights were well grow out roots/ regrowth  having not been down for 6 months this in some ways is a testament to how well they grew out. The challenge here is to get enough lift without over lapping to not have any banding and of course we want or are looking for good pigment control form the colour the colour line has to have a good calibrated pigment in its N series to control the warmth we will be exposing.

When working from a level six and aiming to get a light controlled level 9 for we have to lift through 6 into 7 into 8 and into and though 9

shade and tone pigment

As you can see form the above chart this is asking the colour to control the pigment as we lift through red orange into orange into yellow orange and then control the yellow exposed in the lights of a level 9 a tuff call on any colour.

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As we well know gold and orange can always be an issue if we have a orange issue then we would consider using  high lift with an ash base if we though we might have a yellow issue then we might consider using violet high lift shade. By opting to use the natural I was asking great deal form this high lift. I have to say very impressed from a level 6 to the lightest spectrum of a level 9 with pigment control, no toning required the darker shade seen is the low light the honey blonde is the 9N natural used really to create dimension and depth and add shine.

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This picture was taken to show how well the regrowth blended in with the grown out highlights [its not the best blow dry in the world the baby needed feeding at this point] But the colour and blend are shown off really well as is the condition and shine. The high lift blonde highlights were placed malt around the face and through the from sections blending down using the low light shade and the level 9 in the crown area only a half head was highlighted the under sections are always left natural.

We have to be realistic in our expectation from high lift colour when trying to attain natural blondes shades and it certainly not saying that some times a bleach/De-colouriser as high light would not be called for or required. One can also use high lift blondes for low lights on darker levels to create natural honey and toffee shades again because of the pigment control offers by the colour a natural level 4 could be lifted to a natural level 7 still being bale to control the warmth exposed at that level.

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As with the gold and copper tones very impressed with the mixing ratio and application and the feel of the hair after processing easy to wash out and the hair was easy to comb out after on long hair this can often be an issue.

I did not use foil I use hi-lite papers that are very thin waxed paper that i buy from the USA I prefer how easy they are to fold and how close you can get to the roots and  they do move.

 

I do not get free papers nor am I paid to promote either this colour line or these high light papers.

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Find them follow them on face book.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/WR-Rayson-Co-Inc/156528574777?sk=wall

Finally i found that the high lift blonde lifted and delivered and although I did challenge it by not using the A or V tones, I was every happy with the final result more importantly the model was every happy and has already written to say that she is getting many compliments about her new colour. What more could we a stylist want happy clients who will recommend us when we do a good job and with the help of the products we chose create great colours and styles.

Thank you to Phil Clark and tony Cripps from Alterego Italy for this opportunity and for the products and all the information you provided me with.

Mike B2MR

Available my first Book ‘The salon and the ‘S’ word Available from Feb 2015

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