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Home hair colouring. Is it for you?

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mike vallance

Home hair colouring. Is it for you?

I have decided to post this Article. Its a variation on topic that is well covered but i think oh so very useful like the colour wheel needs warrants constant attention and re addressing.

The Challenges:

One of the biggest dangers that the home consumer face when heading down to the chemist or supermarket for that perfect shade of hair colour is impulsiveness yes the powers of advertising. Celebrities, models, fashion magazines, marketing, advertising gurus have heavily promoted the idea that if you change your hair colour.You can instantly transform your life making you look and feel better.

While that concept may potentially be true in some cases any home hair colouring projects undertaken in haste could result in months of growing out regrets not to mention in some cases long lasting damage. Is it possible to create very successful looks from a home hair colour tones and hues with reasonable success?  Although more complicated colouring projects should be outsourced to a skilled professional colour technician. With some careful planning a list of realistic expectations with a little patience and knowledge, new shades of blonde, radiant red and chocolate brown can all be possible.

razor cut demi colour

As can the funky bright fashion shades the key is as much as possible not to over process your hair with over bleaching, take the time to consider the colours you want and your expectation not just short term!

Un-Tangling the world of Home Hair Colouring:

The following tips and advise will hopefully help you navigate through a vast array of hair colours with ravishing results:  never just hold the box up to your head to see if the colour on the boxes matches!

                                        {Above over processed home Blonde kit:}

Plan your hair color strategy well. 

Prospective home hairdressers carefully evaluate your colour goals before they even consider making a product purchase maybe have a consultation with a professional colour technician. be honest with yourself about wants goals  . Be honest with stylist about all past history and colour application. A good way to do this is keep old packaging ! Every one experimenting with home hair colour especially newbies should study all of the current hair colour formula options. ask advice seek information.

Home hair color products fall into the following ranges:

 Temporary – Lasts through 1-2 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle but does not usually contain peroxide or ammonia.  Will not lift color but will deepen, brighten or enhance existing colour. this includes the bright high fashion shades. some of these colours can build up of they can some times result in staining that can stay behind as colour washes out especially on porous hair.

Semi-Permanent – Lasts 4-6 shampoos.  Coats outside of the cuticle and sometimes deeper deposit can be created depending on the ph of the product opening the cuticle layer.  Generally is free of peroxide or ammonia.  May be more permanent in some situations.

Continued use can result in pigment build up/staining especially on very porous hair sometimes have alkaline base to open cuticle this can create build up and staining.

Demi-Permanent – Lingers through up to 20 shampoos.  Deposits colour between cuticle and cortex. normally contain low level of peroxide and/or ammonia. or something that does the same job change the Ph open the cuticle to enable deposit.

Permanent – Cuticle is opened and color is deposited down into the cortex. Contains peroxide and ammonia.  or something else to deliver the colour molecule [eg MEA} Colour lasts until it grows out, is cut off or is re.coloured.

Highlights – Lifts pigments from the cortex. Contains peroxide, bleach and ammonia. volume of peroxide dictates lift  timing essential.

Below make over shot from above 

      The colour was done with Highlights and panels using only Demi formulation tore pigment hair!

Double Process Colour – Cuticle is first opened and hair is lightened 4-6 levels with peroxide, ammonia and bleach.  New colour is then deposited via a toner into the cortex through the cuticle. some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. explanation also applies to the high fashion bright colours.

While Temporary, Semi and Demi- Permanent hues are generally considered safe it is fair to point out there are always exceptions to every hair rule, For example in some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. What does this mean exactly?

That if you apply a temporary colour to strands that are damaged and thus porous or more absorbent than normal the colour will seep down deep into the cortex and may permanently stain.  Thus repeated attempts to wash out the colour will be ineffective. Again this explanation is true of the bright fashion shades. Build up and staining can create issues when trying to switch into new colours!

 Note:  If you are unsure how your  hair will adopt to hair colour, dial the toll free help lines provided with most home hair colour kits or skip the home colour exercise and contact a professional colourist. or you can at a stretch take a small sample strand from the nape area and apply some colour a strand test.

If you have a good working relationship with your stylist, consider discussing your home hair color plans in advance with them.  
Many hairdressers will be supportive of your goals if you are honest with them. As stylists we should be professional if in this situation and give good sound advise it will come back to you in positive ways.

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 Skin Tone, eye colour, Features, Age:

After you have decided on the right colour process, evaluate the best shade for your age, skin tones and other facial features. It is important that you also take into consideration your lifestyle and how much maintenance you are able to handle to keep your colour fresh and root free.

Things to consider tips to follow:

Keep in mind that hair colour can lift and lighten, match existing colours and brighten or provide depth through darker, richer hues. Focus on colours that are soft, natural and classy.  Consider choosing shades that will slightly lighten, brighten or deepen your current  tone. Select a shade that blends well with your current hair colour that is no more than a maximum of two shades lighter or darker than your own.  It is important to stay in close colour range to avoid a stark colour demarcation line.

Consider your age when selecting colours. Select products and colours that are designed for your age group.  


Keep in mind that colors marketed to much younger consumers are not designed to handle Grey and may be too bright for your skin and eye tones. Remember that after certain ages skin may take on a slight yellow tint.  Soften this look with shades that have a golden base. If you wish to cover Grey, be sure to buy a product that is specifically formulated to deal with the  Grey issue.

Some of the darker shades may intensify wrinkles or other aging signs.  To instantly peel off some years, go one or two shades lighter.Consider buying an extra hair colour kit in case of unforeseen problems or if your hair is extremely long or thick you may wish to use two kits to guarantee complete coverage. With the bright Colour fashion shades you are normally looking for shock value not something subtle having said this the rules still apply some colours will look better on you than others.

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The steps to Success!

Guide lines advice:

Once you have selected the hair color product and hue for you, complete the following steps:

Check the expiration date while still at the store to make sure the product is still viable.

                                                                Below before shot over processed hair:

Once home, immediately examine all the contents in the box. Make sure you have everything stated on the packaging Read the instructions carefully. If anything missing, immediately return the product to where it was purchased.

As always I would suggest a skin patch test at least 48 hours before you colour.

Although you may have used hair colour products in the past, it is very important to do a patch test to protect against an unexpected allergic reaction.  products can change formulation change!
Even if you have been colouring for years, allergies can develop out of the blue and cause serious health risks if not treated immediately.

Do a strand test at least 24 hours before you take the final colour step. Although this process postpones the coloring tasks, it is important to get a good preview of how your hair will look with the selected colour. If you don’t like the results,you can abandon  the project before applying the product to your entire head. Better safe than sorry when it comes to living with unexpected colour results.

Assemble your hair colour tool kit. Gather together a plastic pick or comb, timer, an old shirt and two dark towels that you don’t mind staining. Consider adding a protective covering for the floor since some hair colors can splatter and be messy. Make sure you have a good pair of rubber gloves most kit supply gloves but of poor quality may not fit as well as desired also when getting gloves check out if you want latex or not!

If you plan on repeat colouring, a box of disposable good  quality gloves is a sound investment. staining can be an issue barrier cream on  hand is a good idea. some products supply application bottles but a bowl and brush give very good coverage,

Above make over hair look rich natural happy!

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Applying The Colour:

Once you are ready to actually apply the colour consider the following tips:

It is best to apply colour to hair that has not been washed for at least 24-48 hours to take advantage of the buildup of natural hair oils. these help to protect your scalp.


 If a lot of styling products are used on a regular basis, consider using a shampoo with a clarifying shampoo at least one week before using home hair colour, this will help remove any excess products layered onto the cuticle. do not use clarifying shampoo as a regular product it will lighten and fade you colour! Pick a time when you are relaxed and will not be disturbed. Once you mix the colour, use it right away. Play some soothing or fun music that helps you stay focused on the task at hand. Before you start, re read the instructions from beginning to end.  Make sure that you have everything required in the kit.

Follow all the instructions completely! in the order in which they are suggested. Dispose of any leftover colour as soon as you are finished.{safely}  Once the colours have been mixed, any unused amounts should not be reused at a later date.

To avoid forehead or hairline stains, apply a light layer of Vaseline or similar product right below where the colour will be applied to contain drips or stains.  If you do see drips, wipe them up immediately with an old wet washcloth. You start applying colour at the back of your head and work forward to make sure that the product is applied evenly and does not smear”.  Tip bad stains on skin can indicate that the ph of the colour in high [skin has a Ph 7 so bad stains suggest the colour must be very high Ph ]  tip bad stains windex on cotton wool. Jaw clamps or salon clips are not usually provided.  If you feel you need to clip off sections that are newly coloured or hair that is waiting to be coloured, invest in some metal clips to help colour in a more organised process.

Basic colour wheel

First timers:

If you’ve never coloured before, carefully apply product from roots to the ends. If you have Virgin hair i would suggest applying colour to the mid lengths and ends first roots last they will lift and take the colour the quickest! if in doubt seek professional advise.

For previously coloured hair, be careful to only apply colour to new hair growth. It is important not to overlap colour be patient to allow the full development time watching the colour develop in a mirror from time to time.  It is impossible to know what the results are until the process has finished and the hair is washed and dried.know that you are changing colour and it will go through different stages as the colour develops.

If this is your first time coloring at home or you are nervous about the results, ask a friend to colour sit with you in case you miss some spots or are unsure how the colour is developing.

When the colour is finished processing shampoo out as described in the instructions.  Allowing colour to stay on longer than recommended will not achieve better results.  Hair colour is designed to stop processing at a set point and no matter how long you leave it in your hair, it will not alter the fact that the processing has finished.

If toning it will carry on depositing on porous or bleached hair if left on for prolonged period.

colour advice consultation

When to seek professional advise Hair colour:

If considering home hair colour and you fit into one of the following groups:

This type of colour change can be very tricky and  maybe a good time for consultation and  advice of a professional to be fully aware of all of your options an choices.

If you are going from Blonde / Darker or very Dark to light Blonde

If your hair tend to project lots of reds or warmth or unwanted tones.

Your hair has been chemically treated (straightened, waved) in the last 30 days.

You desire a complicated technique such as block or strap colours or multi-dimensional highlights and low-lights.

You have previously experienced allergic reactions to hair colour products. After you have successfully walked through all the steps and have achieved the new colour of your dreams, consider the fact that proper post-maintenance will help keep your strands soft and extend the life of the colour.

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The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.

Conclusion

This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Leadership
Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
Conclusion
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

Coming out very soon my first Book ‘The salon and the ‘S’ word’ Available late Feb 2015

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Mirrored Vision   By Martin green

Finding customers keeping Clients 

What can I say in writing the Mirrored vision. Martin Green has has taken a risk to produce something that the industry really needs a shot in the arm Innovative, radical, inspirational, challenging.
It certainly poses some really interesting idea’s and concepts it also crosses the boundaries of what might be seen and perceived as normal processes within our industry and in the salon.

Hair image consultancy short tube introduction video

A new connection for me and new association Gary Sunderland amazing creative talent refreshing product line take a look at his web site

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I also think that we need to always look at the Why. Ask the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.

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Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

You can also find me here on LinkedIn on Twitter MikeB2MR and Facebook Back2myroots B2MR

Mike B2MR

 

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