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Bleaching toning

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

mike vallance

 Bleaching toning

The question to ask: Bleaching hair ? How to tone bleached hair?  the role of pastel lightening powder: 

 What is the role of Lavender tone in the bleaching powder when lightening of hair or  bleaching hair. Does this powder really control the pigment exposed when lightening hair? Does it help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion os pigment control? Hum! Bleaching hair and indeed to How to tone hair it’s a big topic. What is the best toner What is the best way to tone hair? Knowledge!!!!!! patients and skill!

Personally I think lightening the hair or bleaching is bleaching is just that lifting it to a level so it can be toned . Toning is toning. How do you tone hair? They do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.

Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment. I have had discussion she it ha sheen suggested to add a small amount of bleach declouriser to a high lift tint formula to gain extra lift !!! This would not work the bleach it would in all eventuality kill or neutralise the pigment in the colour. The pigments that are designed to work on the pigments exposed in the hair during the lifting process. In most cases when this is down the formula will change colour an ago dark ,this is the Pigment being neutralised by the bleaching agent!

A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens! wait for it………..Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules. Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec’s on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

short platinum blonde look

short platinum blonde look

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust ‘ie’ Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don’t breath it in! health and safety at it’s best.It’s designed not to smell . It’s designed to appeal and suggest it’s gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair’s natural pigment. All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it’s various levels.

Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process.

Some bleaches even have:

Examples: Mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs. Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!

Another description: Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.

Finally: Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it’s role !!!!!

Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions.

Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.

Ingredients: Potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste. All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!

After Bleaching hair or lightening it we are now faced with How to tone it!

One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic!

Required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!

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When about toning bleached hair one should  think about violet as a colour or tone . I ask my self are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool red that one see’s so much of these days. Or are we thinking about the role Violet plays in the hair colour process. Violet as shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But it’s almost behind the scene in the colour process.We have  the lightening and bleaching process we expose pigment that we then have to control.

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series Violet will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is. As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart.

With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it’s plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.

Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash! Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required.

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What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it .this lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled. Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow/ Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation? What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows

Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8

It’s all about balance.

Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance  you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process. If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone !   See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment fro the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this.Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it’s would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.

Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose.

Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above.

In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.

I hope this answers some questions or promotes some thoughts feel free to post questions .

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The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.

Conclusion

This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Leadership
Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
Conclusion
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

You can also find me here on LinkedIn on Twitter MikeB2MR and Facebook Back2myroots B2MR

Stylist having an online profile.

I’m very excited and flattered to have been offered an opportunity to post an article on the Hairbyus.com web site Click here to read 

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As a stylist young or seasoned why not build a profile try this platform www.hairbyus.com if you post images of younger models, with current commercial hairstyles then it will attract a younger audience looking for those kind of hairstyles in your area.To strive to be better to make a real difference!Intelligent salon software provides a state of the art comprehensive salon marketing and management solution, complete with the knowledge, expertise and coaching required to take your salon to the next level.

Mirrored Vision   By Martin green

Mirrored Vision

 

Finding customers keeping Clients 

What can I say in writing the Mirrored vision. Martin Green has has taken a risk to produce something that the industry really needs a shot in the arm Innovative, radical, inspirational, challenging.
It certainly poses some really interesting idea’s and concepts it also crosses the boundaries of what might be seen and perceived as normal processes within our industry and in the salon.

Hair image consultancy short tube introduction video

A new connection for me and new association Gary Sunderland amazing creative talent refreshing product line take a look at his web site

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I also think that we need to always look at the Why. Ask the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.

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Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

salon studies product survey

Mike B2MR

 

 

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