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Understanding hair structure:

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

mike vallance

Understanding hair structure:

hair stylists the hairdresser community and profession

To be a good hair colourist we have to know so much! In order to understand the dynamics of hair colour we need to look at the hair’s inner structure and understand how it is affected and changed in the colour process.

The Cuticle:

The protective outer layer of the hair shaft the Cuticle is made up of Translucent overlapping layers of keratin protein.

Each layer completely encompasses the hair shaft.{imagine a stack of paper cups that might give you a visual image of the Cuticle}. Just as you might be able to bend a stack of cups without pulling apart the structure of the hair has the same pliability. The cuticle affords the hair about 25% of its strength. When the Cuticle is healthy it will lie flat against the hair shaft light will reflect of the translucent layers allowing the hair to appear to shine.

structure

When we perform a chemical service on the hair perming or colour the Cuticle has to be opened to allow any chemical process to penetrate into the cortex to do this one has to change the natural Ph of the hair to do this we have to use an alkaline. In the past ammonia has been the main driver of this part of the colouring process but it has always been though to cause damage and tends to smell.

shape and texture

Recently most of the major hair colour companies have been promoting healthy all natural products personally i find this marketing misleading now the catch words are herbal, organic, natural, unfortunately the products now driving the colour are MEA and Denatured Alcohol are they any less drying and damaging to the cuticle ? you decide! they all serve to open the cuticle they are all an alkaline.  personally i would rather know the strength of the ammonia in a colour rather than work with an unknown many professional hair colours did have quite high levels of ammonia i can live with ) 0.4% up to2%.

Basic colour wheel

Many Colour companies have replaced having bees wax as a buffer in hair colour with oil and silicon. Naturally after any chemical service the the correct Ph level must be restored to close the cuticle and restore that natural looking sheen a chemical balancing product is good for this it will restore the hair back to a pH of around 5.5.

shades tone

The Cortex:

The Cortex makes up the bulk of the hair shaft the Cortex is composed of Keratin protein and 19 Amino acids. Keratin is a natural fibrous protein cross linked by sulfur bonds in the cortex the inner structure of the hair is known as the helix. we also find covalent and ionic bonds these are also effected by chemical services.

shade and tone pigment

keratin is another well marketed product it it’s naturally in the hair then added to products it must be good most hair products that have Keratin in them have a source derived from animal, vegetable, or mineral, Keratin from these sources will only lie on the out side of the hair with over use can make the hair slightly brittle so given the cost restrictions most companies opt for the cheaper source although these can and will give the sheen and make the hair look healthy they do not penetrate through the cuticle layer of hair. { molecular size is to Big 500} The only keratin able to penetrate into the hair has to be hydrolyzed human hair Keratin.{molecular weight 150-300 able to penetrate the hair} 

Fact {Hair is 89%protein and 10% moisture} so the only keratin that really can help the hair on an internal level is sourced from human hair.

Above: Healthy shining highlighted hair with Multi tones:

The medulla:

The medulla is the inner layer or center of the hair shaft, it is made up of softer Keratin protein than in the cortex it could be best described as being like raw sponge part of the  Medulla function is linked to the bodies excretory system. Understand the roles of the above layers is key to performing good chemical services on the hair.

The Above facts are well worth having in your tool kit of knowledge when performing Chemical services on the Hair!

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The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.

Conclusion

This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Leadership
Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
Conclusion
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

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Alter Ego Italy professional products are already having success in both the UK and all over Europe and its now ready to launch and be part of the Market in the USA. It’s offering all the things that I hold dear passion and commitment to salon training and support. It has the support from being just one part of a much bigger entity that is striving for success in the salon and hair industry.

The product line is very comprehensive offering professional products to cater for all needs of both the salon and the stylist salon products and retail support for the clients. Many new an exciting things are being launched and coming on line via there web site Alter Ego Italy and various social media platforms.

Alterego Italy

For more information on the products or the Brand new Uk Academy here is the contact information:

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FaceBook Italy 

Available now my first Book ‘The salon and the ‘S’ word Available Now Click here for details 

Latest comment. Enjoying your book. A lot of thought has gone into this book and to be honest I wish that I had read it while operating a business.
The time and effort in explaining the target clientele was good as I feel that most people wouldn’t even think about it. Your subject with dealing with suppliers was very good. I wish that I had studied when working.
There were a lot of questions and points that I was not asking. My overall view of it is that it is well researched, and has good subjects and points. Currently I am on page 56. so lots to read yet!

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Alterego Image

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Reviewing a new colour line:        Reviewing :High lift blonde.

Alterego Italy  salon exclusive professional Hair colour and salon products / client retail a very exciting range of products designed for those with a mind for quality  passion and creativity.

by Alterego Italy

Techno Fruit. Hair colour click above to read reviews on this colour line.

I also think that we need to always look at the Why. Ask the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.

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Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

You can also find me here on LinkedIn on Twitter MikeB2MR and Facebook Back2myroots B2MR

Mike B2MR

 

 

 

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