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Hair colour History and useful facts

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Hair colour History and useful facts

mike vallance

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Hair colour History and useful facts Brief look and some sound information on the chemistry and development of all hair colour be it for professional or home use.

Ammonia  PPD Free Hair Colour Ingredients:

PPD Free Hair Colour ingredients-

Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural compounds and dyes. Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new chemical paraphenylenediamine.{ has a petroleum ring to it does it not?}  As does the newest colour  delivery system  MEA based from ethanol-Ammonia see a pattern.

                                                                              Ammonia Friend or foe!

The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12 shampoos are:

Ammonia – This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide.

Like all Alkaline products ammonia tends to separate or open the cuticle and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair changes the Ph from our desired 5 to 5.5 to 7 and beyond.

Detergent are also an Alkaline when we mix detergent and small amount ammonia we can create a very basic foaming semi permanent or a shampoo rinse! Hydrogen Peroxide (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) This ingredient in varying forms and strengths, helps initiate the colour-forming process and creates longer-lasting colour.

Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction] for the majority of hair coloring the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.

Alternatives to industrial  professional tints:

These would be known as natural hair colour derived from plants and root extract, not to be confused with some of the herbal ammonia free hair colour marketed today.

It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks.

Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colours.

These PPD.free products are said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of  most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based .These products are available in a variety of different formats those being. Temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options.

However, these products typically do not last as long as industrial tints once again the engine driving the colour can be classed as herbal but it may be just as toxic as Ammonia! grain alcohol known as Denatured alcohol for example Silicone and oils. It  makes sense to use a reputable, ethical, safe hair colour! 

Good luck with this still not convinced these companies are totally honest in the way they represent the product or the chemistry of the formulation

Types Of Products:

Hair colour dyes are available today in all forms. Liquid, powder, oil, cream and gel, etc. Mascaras, crayons and sprays are used as temporary and semi-permanent dying, whereas gel and other forms are used for permanent styling. Once again the products all have a different edge hook oil, silicone, metallic salt. wax. the list goes on!

We are  all unique! and no one else has exactly the same hue as you! You might look black, brown, red or blonde, but there are subtle differences.Amazingly nature creates a different dye for everyone using only two types of the natural pigments “melanin”: umelanin (black pigment) and pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment).

In most case the skin colour and tone our eye colour all those different flecks and indeed our hair colour a multitude of shades tones all make us unique and normally compliment each other.It is all of these pigments that we encounter when deciding to embark on hair colouring. It is this pigment and levels natural shade that we consider when making decisions on a new colour formulations. Knowing what products are how they work the chemistry of any given products is key to being successful and making the correct colour choice and formulation decision. understanding the colour wheel and trusting it will help in this process.

 

This is why it is essential that as stylist’s we have a good all round knowledge of products and how they work on the hair during any chemical process. In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the official guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth. As understanding the Ph scale and the role it plays in chemical services is so important when doing any chemical services

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The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.

Conclusion

This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Leadership
Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
Conclusion
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

I also think that we need to always look at the WhyAsk the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.

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Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

Mike B2MR

The salon and the S word now available in book and e book format for links to purchase and reviews Click here or on the image.

 

The Salon & the ‘S’ Word

 Written by Mike Vallance

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