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Bleach.Tone.Damage.Condition.

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS: B2MR

Bleach.Tone.Damage.Condition.

mike vallance

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Bleach.Tone.Damage.Condition. When lifting or bleaching hair we have to consider many things to make sure its a success. That the shade and tone are correct and the condition and hair integrity had been maintained.

Hair Lighteners: Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works. Hair Lighteners come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair.Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it. Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release. Always think about the integrity of the hair structure>structure

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting, Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Lotions Oil -Gel:

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process. {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!}

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide. { Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generallythey are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide}.

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.

 

Mixing: Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence.{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. it has no limits it can remove all pigment form the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel.

Technical colour wheel

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange. yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade! The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

shades tone

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

shade and tone pigment

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction: One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour. As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner 

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created.  deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want!


All these shades are toners:

B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.

G/ yellow/orange base gold

V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow

A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange

What would you do to avoid to much yellow?

To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required

worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth

their is no exact time for toning it’s a visual hands on exercise.

do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!

you may well get over deposit and sludge!  toning is colour correction or re balancing ! as always do a skin test! 

The ‘Three R’s’ 
”Reputation. Recommendation. Retention”. 
It’s not built on that constant looking for new clients it’s looking after what you have! It’s investing in your self and your business and those around you.

Conclusion

This journey, this career, is wonderful – challenging, inspiring, and yes, hard work.

Leadership
Our industry is in constant change and is sometimes criticised. For lacking vision in some areas. However there is an ever growing body of professionals. That have a firm commitment to our industry, they have a passion for change, to raise standards through education and sharing. Leadership, education and team incentives.Will over time and with commitment give any individual that ability to do exceptional work and to be more creative. Leadership and management help create an amazing work environment for all concerned. So key for success for all concerned.
Conclusion
This journey. This career, is wonderful – Challenging. Inspiring and yes can and will be hard work. but the rewards are worth all the effort.
Thank you all for letting me share some thoughts with you today.These are inspirational, passionate, industry professionals.They have a vision. These are the people I want on my bus to learn from, share with, take a journey with. Get inspired. Connect with driven motivated industry professional. challenge your self. invest in ones /your self 

Are you driver or passenger !

 There are no guarantees in life and ones career and career choice is no different thing happen and its how we deal with them that defines us. Jobs change relationships come and go the one thing that remains after training is our skill both hands on creative and the ones we learn about people and communication about caring about being a team player. Constantly developing new skills staying current is so very important.

My web site is Back2myroots: B2MR feel free to check in

You can also find me here on LinkedIn on Twitter MikeB2MR and Facebook Back2myroots B2MR

Stylist having an online profile.

I’m very excited and flattered to have been offered an opportunity to post an article on the Hairbyus.com web site Click here to read 

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As a stylist young or seasoned why not build a profile try this platform www.hairbyus.com if you post images of younger models, with current commercial hairstyles then it will attract a younger audience looking for those kind of hairstyles in your area.To strive to be better to make a real difference!Intelligent salon software provides a state of the art comprehensive salon marketing and management solution, complete with the knowledge, expertise and coaching required to take your salon to the next level.

Mirrored Vision   By Martin green

Mirrored Vision

 

Finding customers keeping Clients 

What can I say in writing the Mirrored vision. Martin Green has has taken a risk to produce something that the industry really needs a shot in the arm Innovative, radical, inspirational, challenging.
It certainly poses some really interesting idea’s and concepts it also crosses the boundaries of what might be seen and perceived as normal processes within our industry and in the salon.

Hair image consultancy short tube introduction video

A new connection for me and new association Gary Sunderland amazing creative talent refreshing product line take a look at his web site

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I also think that we need to always look at the Why. Ask the question Why are we in business whats it for? OrWhy do we want to go into to business what is success? Why do I suggest this I think by asking and exploring the why we get to the motive behind why we want to be in business what is true success. Why the will also help us to understand our true values this in turn helps us to follow the path to the success we want  and desire. It will help us to surround ourselves with the right team those who share our values and vision.

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Remember. Salon success. Stylist success. Business success are all linked together it’s Team success. Its never about any destination only ever about a journey taking the right people on that journey makes it enjoyable maybe even fun!

Mike B2MR

 

 


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